This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attracting electrical currents through the safety valve to open it. *Please note: this does not replace the flat style igniters. If your gas ign...Read moreiter does not start, glows but does not light, or produces little to no heat when baking, replacing this part could be the solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance.
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperatures and makes cleanup simple. With approximate dimensions of 16 3/4 inches long, 12 3/4 inches wide, and 1 3/4 inches high, it offers a convenient size for everyday broiling and roasting.
This temperature sensor is used to measure the inside temperature of a self-cleaning oven. Its 1000-ohm resistance increases with temperature. The sensor has male leads, is 6 inches in length, and comes with 2 ceramic wire nuts. Fault temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Furthermore,...Read more if you find your oven is too hot, will not heat evenly, or simply will not heat at all, there could be an issue with your temperature sensor and you should look to replace it immediately.
This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air conditioners, and dishwashers. It is a metal part with a threaded hole to fasten parts in the appliance together. It is common for this part to ...Read morewear out; it is recommended to order a spare. To replace this part the tools needed are a nut driver or wrench. This nut features a built-in external tooth lock washer, which is used to help keep the nut in place.
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The lower burner would not ignite.
80 of 87 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Mark from Rego Park, NY
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
... Read mores not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Light Bulb burned out
12 of 12 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jeffrey from Marietta, GA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Removed the two screws that hold the back glass in place. Rotated old bulb out of it's lamp fixture and replaced it with the new bulb. Replaced glass and reinstalled the screws. The hardest part was finding the bulb ... a very unique 18W flourescent. I wasted a couple of hours trying to locate it locally at my regular suppliers. Th
... Read moree order at PatsSelect was easy and direct and the bulb was on my doorstep 3 days later .. an exact fit. Thanks guys.
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Oven wouldn't light (gas)
12 of 14 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from El Paso, TX
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.