EL5030VW0 Roper Dryer - Overview

Diagrams for EL5030VW0

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Parts for the EL5030VW0

$17.15

Dryer Thermal Fuse

★★★★★

(378)

Part #WP3392519

The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when th...Read more

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$15.00

Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

★★★★★

(433)

Part #341241

This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.

$8.55

Door Catch Kit

★★★★★

(136)

Part #279570

This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike ...Read more

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$18.22

Rear Drum Support Roller Kit

★★★★★

(150)

Part #349241T

The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is...Read more

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$16.07

Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly

★★★★★

(24)

Part #WP691366

This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this...Read more

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$35.80

Thermal Cut-Off Kit

★★★★★

(72)

Part #279769

This kit includes a high-limit thermostat rated at 250°F and a thermal cut-off fuse rated at 360°F, both designed to prevent overheating in dryers. The thermostat monitors internal temperatures and interrupts power if the dryer exceeds safe operating limits, while the thermal fuse acts as a backup safety device, cutting off power if tempe...Read more

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$11.77

Roller Support Tri-Ring

★★★★★

(5)

Part #WPW10512946

If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the...Read more

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$33.69

Dryer Heating Element

★★★★★

(60)

Part #WP4391960

This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.

$6.40

Leveling Foot

★★★★★

(13)

Part #49621

If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Keep the washer as close to the floor as possible. Y...Read more

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$97.46

Drive Motor with Pulley

★★★★★

(36)

Part #279827

This OEM drive motor is designed to operate the drum in electric and gas dryers by turning the drive belt, enabling proper rotation during drying cycles. Compatible with most Whirlpool-incorporated dryer brands manufactured before 1996, it includes a pre-attached pulley, which is not available separately. If the motor has shorted out or f...Read more

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$9.62

Heating Element Connection Wire Kit

★★★★★

(4)

Part #279457

This kit is used for electric clothes dryers, and it comes with a yellow wire nut.

$7.47

Dryer Screw

★★★★★

(2)

Part #WP90767

This screw is sold individually.

Manuals & Care Guides for EL5030VW0

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Install

Installation Instructions

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Questions And Answers for EL5030VW0

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Miles - For model number EL5030VW0

June 24, 2021

My Roper dryer was not heating. I replaced the thermal fuse, the thermal cut off kit, the heating element and the cycling thermostat. I have cleaned the vent going to the outside and the vent inside the dryer. I took the housing from the dryer blower fan to check for lent, there wasn’t enough to speak of but i cleaned the fan. The dryer will heat for a few minutes, the heating element will come on and stay on for a minute then goes off and doesn’t come back on and there is no more heat.Thank you for any suggestions or help. miles williams

HI Miles, Thank you for contacting us. If you have replaced these parts and checked for lint in the vent and it is clean, you may need to replace the high limit thermostat. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.

$60.51

High Limit Thermostat

1 person found this instruction helpful.

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Common Symptoms of the EL5030VW0

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Noisy

Fixed by
these parts

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Door won’t close

Fixed by
these parts

Marks left on clothes

Fixed by
these parts

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Heat stays on after drum has stopped

Touchpad does not respond

Lid or door won’t close

Running With Door Open

Fixed by
these parts

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Videos related to models starting with EL5030VW0

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

Replacing the Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

Replacing the Dryer Thermal Fuse

Replacing the Rear Drum Support Roller Kit

Replacing the Door Catch Kit

Replacing the Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly

Replacing the Drive Motor with Pulley

Replacing the Roller Support Tri-Ring

Replacing the Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Repair Tips From Fixers Like You

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Dryer was working, but no heat.

3067 of 3491 people found this instruction helpful.

ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more

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Dryer tub belt broke

1370 of 1493 people found this instruction helpful.

Ray from Denton, TX
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i ... Read more nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.

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Other Parts Used:

Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly

Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

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No heat but would run otherwise

927 of 1023 people found this instruction helpful.

Dana from Grassvally, CA
A Bit Difficult
More than 2 hours
Screw drivers

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and did ... Read more

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