Located at the front of the washing machine, this dryer lint filter traps lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing out of the dryer drum. This part measures approximately 14 inches long x 11 inche...
$79.47
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This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open. The most common issue that might arise that would indicate the flame sensor needs to be replaced is your dryer is not giving off eno...
$28.57
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This high temperature adhesive is used for installing felt and rubber seals on dryers. The tube contains 1 ounce of product. This adhesive is made to withstand extremely hot temperatures. Before apply...
$47.69
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This is a genuine replacement drum roller for a dryer. This part includes a roller which has an axle and two tri-rings. The dryer drum roller holds the drum in place while it rotates on the dryer supp...
$62.82
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This part is the replacement screw for your washer. The head is approximately inch in diameter and the screw is approximately 3/4 inch in length. It is made of metal and is sold individually. This is...
$9.26
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This door latch is used in dryers to help keep the door closed during a cycle and releases the door to open when the latch is pushed. If the door does not stay shut, it can affect the cycle and your c...
$79.11
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This outer door window, or outer lens, is found in your front-loading washer or dryer. Mounted to the door, it provides visibility and allows you to monitor the washing or drying process. It also acts...
$178.93
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Questions And Answers for EIMGD55IMB2
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James
November 18, 2022
Need to order the right door latch for my Electrolux dryer, can't find it on the parts list
For model number EIMGD55IMB2
Hello James, thank you for the question. The door latch, part number PS8691863, will fit your model. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
. Hi. I don’t see the part I am looking for. My dryer is making really bad noise. I opened and cleaned it. I thought it would be the belt, but it’s not. There is belt look like something inside broken. It’s a small piece I found it inside. Does this dryer has 2 belts? Thanks
For model number EIMGD55IMB2
Hello Diana, thank you for asking. According to our research, there is only one belt in your model. The small piece you found is probably an exhaust tube seal, part number PS418344. It is located between the blower wheel and the exhaust tube. If it is damaged, you may need to replace it. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order, anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope that helps.
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replac
... Read moreing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.
The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner uni
... Read moret but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.
This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.
This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet. 1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front 2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector loc
... Read moreated just along the top-right side of dryer 3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws 4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates) 5) Set front panel to side 6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal 7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked. 8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover. 9) Finish taking screw out by hand 10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal. 11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel 12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap 13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws 14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
