EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

EA1120L Speed Queen Washer - Overview

Diagrams for EA1120L

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long) – Part Number: WP28808
$57.38
Special Order
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP28808
This v-style drive belt is thirty-two and a half inches long and half of an inch wide.
Drive Bell and Seal Kit – Part Number: R9900189
No Longer Available
Drive Bell and Seal Kit
Part #R9900189
This washing machine drive bell and seal kit comes with a seal, a plug, a shoulder screw, a drive bell, and some grease.
V-Style Cogged Pump Belt (22.5 inches long) – Part Number: WP27155
No Longer Available
V-Style Cogged Pump Belt (22.5 inches long)
Part #WP27155
This V-style cogged tooth pump belt is used in conjunction with the drive belt in your washing machine. This belt is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber. It is twenty-two and a half inches long and 3/8 of an inch wide
Drain Pump - 2 Port – Part Number: 31969
No Longer Available
Drain Pump - 2 Port
Part #31969
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
Two Speed Motor – Part Number: 27179P
No Longer Available
Two Speed Motor
Part #27179P
This two speed motor performs 1725 revolutions per minute in one speed, and 1140 revolutions per minute in the second speed. It runs at 1/2 horsepower and carries 115 volts. You can use this washer motor with your Amana brand washing machine. This motor replaces those models that utilize two pulleys and whose pump is belt driven.
Idler Pulley Wheel – Part Number: WP28800
No Longer Available
Idler Pulley Wheel
Part #WP28800
This idler pulley wheel is not quite three inches in diameter. It is black and made of plastic with a metal center.
Timer – Part Number: 31111P
No Longer Available
Timer
Part #31111P
TRANSMISSN – Part Number: 33227P
No Longer Available
TRANSMISSN
Part #33227P
Water temp switch – Part Number: 81799
No Longer Available
Water temp switch
Part #81799
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: 33930P
No Longer Available
Water Inlet Valve
Part #33930P
Water inlet valve

Common Symptoms of the EA1120L

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Frayed V-belt
63 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Milton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, r emove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Washer leaked when in use.
16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Columbus, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This washer leaked when it was about 7 years old and I replaced the seals at the bottom of the drum. That was a difficult repair but I'm glad I did it because the thing has run just fine for the 11 years since then.

This time when it leaked I started shopping for new washers, thinking it was the same thing. Just to be sure I op ened it up to see if it was leaking somewhere else. The pump is right in the front of the washer and sure enough, it started dripping just a few minutes into the cycle. I hopped onto the interwebs and found Parts Select, they shipped me the new part and it arrived the next day!

First I removed the washer front (two screws). Then the bracket holding the pump came off by removing the two screws in front and loosening the screw behind then sliding it toward the back of the washer. The belt comes off once the tension slacks and the pump and bracket come right out. Remove the two hoses from the pump and four screws holding the pump to the bracket and you are ready to reverse the procedure.

If you care about your floor, be prepared to catch the water somehow when you remove the hoses. Be careful not to cross-thread the plastic when you screw the new pump on.

The toughest part was replacing the two hoses. One was held on by one of those clamps that you squeeze with pliers, not the screw kind. The space is kinda tight and a third hand would have been useful if there was room for it. I think I re-attached the bracket and pump to the washer to hold it in place.

I finished the whole thing in less than 30 minutes. It was super-easy except for the hoses. I would have bought a clamp that screws if I had thought ahead, but there must have been a reason for the manufacturer to use two different kinds of clamps.

I just realized it probaby took me as long to type up this story as it did to fix the thing. I just couldn't see spending ten times the money to buy a new washer!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Wouldn't agitate or spin.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Akron, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
This was my fist time attempting to fix a washer. I had to guess on the length of the belt since the model number on the machine had worn off and the belt had snapped in a way that made determining the length difficult. At first, I ordered a belt that was too small. I realized this after I was unable to remount the motor stand onto the bo ttom of the machine. This model had the motor assembly right in front of the unit. It was easily accessed after removing the panel on the front of the machine. It was easy to remove the 4 screws (they were all visible) on the motor stand. After that I was able to disconnect the pump belt. This machine has seperate belts for agitation and the pump. The pump belt must be removed in order to install the agitator belt because they both are driven by the same shaft and the pump belt is positioned on the bottom. There is also a tension wheel for the agitator belt which might be easily overlooked. Make sure to install the agitator belt so that the tension wheel is on the outside of the belt's path. The whole job is fairly easy if you have the right part to begin with. If you have to force the belt onto the wheels, then you probably have a belt that is too small.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!