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DSD26DGWB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for DSD26DGWB

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Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$30.53
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(69)
Part #WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper – Part Number: WR17X11653
$33.60
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(93)
Part #WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
$13.92
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
★★★★★
★★★★★
(27)
Part #WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan grommet is located behind the evaporator fan cover in the back of the freezer. You will need to remove the evaporator fan cover to access the evaporator fan and complete this repair. Before you begin this repair, ensure the power to the refrigerator is disconnected. You will need a pair of needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screw driver and both a 1/4 and 5/16-inch nut driver to complete this repair.
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly – Part Number: WR62X10055
$56.33
In Stock
Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(36)
Part #WR62X10055
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is sold individually. Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR51X10055
$92.28
In Stock
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
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★★★★★
(41)
Part #WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup – Part Number: WR17X11459
$81.35
In Stock
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup
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★★★★★
(35)
Part #WR17X11459
This part is found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace this part when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
Recess Door Spring – Part Number: WR02X10585
$16.10
In Stock
Recess Door Spring
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★★★★★
(12)
Part #WR02X10585
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find the spring in the water dispenser assembly, behind the main control panel. If the dispenser lever is malfunctioning or the dispenser ice door is not closing, you may need to replace this door recess spring.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$15.00
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
DISPENSER LIGHT – Part Number: WR01X37886
$35.22
In Stock
DISPENSER LIGHT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR01X37886
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$16.05
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X31507
$18.37
In Stock
REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(41)
Part #WR23X31507
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10185
$83.64
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
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★★★★★
(22)
Part #WR60X10185
This evaporator fan motor circulates air to the fresh food compartments for efficient cooling. It powers the evaporator fan that draws air from the refrigerator and circulates it over the evaporator coils. Your fan motor has a long life cycle, but can burn out quickly if there is an obstruction preventing the fan from rotating. If the fan does not operate, the freezer will not cool properly. This will affect the performance of the compressor. This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer section of your refrigerator, behind the auger motor assembly. It is attached to the back wall. If you notice problems with your freezer then check to see if there is anything blocking a fan blade. If there is no obstruction, test the evaporator fan motor using a multimeter. Test the 2 wires that travel from the coil on the motor for resistance. If these tests indicate that the evaporator fan motor is at fault, it must be replaced. This part features 1 evaporator fan motor, which is metal and plastic, and comes in white/silver

Questions And Answers for DSD26DGWB

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James - For model number DSD26DGWB
October 1, 2025
DOOR HANDLE IS LOOSE ON ONE END. HOW CAN I TIGHTEN IT?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi James, thank you for your inquiry. You can tight the handle by removing the handle caps at each end and tightening the screws using a screwdriver. Glad to be of help!
$103.32
Special Order
HANDLE SXS DOOR BK
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Common Symptoms of the DSD26DGWB

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Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
606 of 738 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from San Clemente, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
305 of 404 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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Refrigerator too cold
156 of 163 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Orlando, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed:
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
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