This part is the replacement drain check valve for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1-1/4 inches by 1-1/4 inches. The round section of the check valve is approximately...
$28.60
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This drain hose is 80" long. The drain hose carries drain water from the dishwasher drain pump to the kitchen sink drain.
A/S-DRAIN HOSE OUT;ODM, DW3000MM
$58.77
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This is a leak sensor designed for use with a range of Samsung dishwashers. This sensor is designed to detect if water begins leaking from the water supply. If/when it detects a leak, it stops the wat...
$39.35
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for DMT400RHS
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Buck
February 1, 2023
unit does not power on. possible causes?
For model number DMT400RHS
Hi Buck, thank you for your question. According to our research, we recommend checking the following: dishwasher power cord, user interface control wiring, and child safety lock. If all checks are fine, you will need to reset the dishwasher. Turn the power off and back on. If that does not work, you may have to press and hold the start button or unplug the machine for a minute or two. After resetting, you will be able to start a new wash cycle. If that does not help, check the following parts: door latch, part number PS4222317, thermistor, part number PS4222316, circulation pump motor, part number PS4222311, and control board, part number PS4235747. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Get off bottom tray to get to sump/pump- think it may be clogged or broken
For model number DMT400RHS
Hello Lisa, Thank you for your inquiry. First turn off the power to the dishwasher and water supply. To remove the lower dishrack, you may need to remove the upper dishrack first by removing the rail stoppers with a flat blade screwdriver and then pulling the rack all the way out and lifting up on it remove it from the rails. The lower dishrack should then remove the same way. The water supply tube and lower spray arm can then be detached by pressing on the tabs and then pulling the spray arm up and off. We hope this helps.
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Scott
October 11, 2022
Hi is there a way to replace the stainless color door with a black one on this model?
For model number DMT400RHS
Hello Scott, thank you for your question. Yes, the model for Black is DMT400RHB and the black door is part PS4222353. Good luck with this repair.
The install definitely takes a bit more than the video I watched but in the end all was fine. The electrical and hose connections are nothing but getting the three screws and retainers isn't as easy as shown in the video I watched and getting them back in is even worse. My hands aren't small but they're not huge either. You'll need multip
... Read morele phillips head screwdrivers. All a #2 head, with one stubby, one about 6" and one long one with about 8" or more of shaft on the screwdriver to remove the screws. Also take pictures if possible with your phone for reconnecting all your wiring harnesses will prove helpful. The only other difficult part of doing it by yourself is compressing the new sump seal enough to get the three nylon retainer clips back into place. There is really need or room for two people on any part of this other than at that point. If you could have somebody push down on the pump unit from inside while you install the retainers it would make it so much easier but I managed. Other than that not a big deal. Good luck!
1. I always record the model number and serial number of every appliance I buy. Saves me aggravation later. For DIY-repair people, this is the most important, universal tip I can give. 2. With the model number in hand, I went to partselect.com and bought a new seal. For things like this, I actively avoid online superstores whose name
... Read mores sound like a really large river since I've received crappy parts from countries who names rhyme with "mynah" and the parts don't fit or I'm replacing them again in another year. Partselect items fit and work. 3. I put the new seal in a bowl of very warm water to make it more flexible. Since its a washer seal, I know it doesn't matter if it gets wet. 4. I put put a drop cloth (could use a sheet of cardboard from an old appliance box, or something similar) on the floor to cut down on the drippy mess. There's always a few drips. 5. I took several close-up pictures of the old seal while it's still in the appliance. Cell phones make this easy -- better to have a record of how it goes together. I do the same every time I'm disassembling appliances, but in this case the the door seal is right inside the the door, so I don't need many photos. But close-up photos of the ends will show how much overhang to expect during the replacement. 6. I partially pulled out the old seal. Took one more photo where it's partially pulled out to make sure I understand the orientation when I put it back in. Then finished pulling it out and set it aside. 7. Cleaned out the groove where the old seal was, and cleaned out the door edges well so the new seal can fit right. Old toothbrushes (don't throw them out, they're way too useful) and cotton swabs to clean any gunk out of crevices. 8. On this model, the door latch is in the center of the washer, so that's where the middle of the new seal goes. 9 Take the seal out of the water, shake off excess water, and stretch istlightly to help straighten it. Hold the ends of the seal together. where it folds in half is the midpoint. Grab it by that midpoint. 10, Press the seal into the groove starting with the midpoint directly below the latch so it will be even length from left to right. 11. Continued pressing the seal into place down the sides. Observe that if I've done this correctly, each end overhangs onto the bottom of the tub by approximately the same amount. 12. Using the HANDLE, and NOT the blade of a butter knife, pressed the seal into the groove firmly as all points along the seal. DO NOT use anything sharp to this step, you don't want to nick the seal. DID NOT **slide** the butter knife along, simply pressed it in repeatedly, moved a half-inch down the seal, and repeated. The goal is to NOT stretch the seal, but simply to make sure its fully in the groove. 13. Checked the dishwasher for anything out of place. Don't skip this step -- you have the appliance open and your tools out -- best time for preventative maintenance. Also a good time to verify that the dishwasher is properly leveled -- this influences leaks as well. 14. On this model, there is a vent in the door that lets air out when the washer fills, and lets air in when it empties. This was absolutely "gunked up" with soap sludge, and I spent more time cleaning the vent than I did in replacing the seal. But without a properly-functioning vent, pressure builds up inside the tub during filling, and water can be pushed out an otherwise-mediocre seal. I wonder if I had caught that first if I could have avoided replacing the seal. 15. Ran the washer on several "quick" cycles to ensure no leaks. 16. Put everything back together. Put away the tools. Went to the "toy store" and bought myself a new tool (an oscillating toolkit this time) as a reward for a job well done. Besides, the saw will get used when I re-tile the main bath, which I've been putting off.
