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CTF15CBC Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for CTF15CBC

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Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: WR9X502
$78.14
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you notice that your fridge is too warm, the fridge is running for a long time or is leaking, it could be due to the defrost timer becoming inactive. The defrost timer is found underneath the light cover (may need to remove lightbulb) and will need to be removed along with the air inlet assembly and housing.
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit – Part Number: WR60X114
$34.93
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR60X114
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the fan to the evaporator. The evaporator mechanism is normally located in the freezer and is responsible for pulling the warmer air over the condenser coils, cooling it off and then blowing and circulating that cooler air through the rest of the refrigerator. If the freezer compartment has a frost buildup or if there is a lack of cooling and airflow in your refrigerator, this fan likely needs to be replaced. To replace your evaporator fan, you will likely need a screwdriver and a set of pliers and check your user manual for the exact location of your evaporator fan.
Defrost Thermostat Kit – Part Number: WR50X55
$24.08
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR50X55
This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees F and kick back in when the temperature drops to 35 degrees F. It comes with connectors and the mounting brackets.
Fresh Food Door Gasket – Part Number: WR24X319
No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket
Part #WR24X319
This white fresh food door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X162
$56.93
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR60X162
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's stack is 3/8 of an inch, and the motor has two terminals: one on the right side, and one on the left side. Use this evaporator fan motor for your GE brand refrigerator.
Single Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X77
No Longer Available
Single Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR57X77
This single outlet valve comes with a gasket, and is intended for refrigerators that have ice makers which make round ice cubes. If the ice maker is still not working properly, the issue could be that you have a damaged, or faulty water inlet valve. The water inlet valve supplies the water needed to the ice maker. Before you decide to replace this part, turn the household water supply to this valve off, and remove the input tubing to see if it is clogged. If it is, clear the blockage to allow water back into the ice machine. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply to your refrigerator before beginning this repair.
Freezer Door Gasket – Part Number: WR24X312
No Longer Available
Freezer Door Gasket
Part #WR24X312
This white gasket is used to seal the freezer door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
Temperature Control Thermostat – Part Number: WR9X355
No Longer Available
Temperature Control Thermostat
Part #WR9X355
This part maintains the proper temperature. When the refrigerator reaches the desired temperature, this part interrupts the flow of electricity to the compressor which stops the cooling process.
Ice Maker Seal Kit – Part Number: WR29X144
No Longer Available
Ice Maker Seal Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR29X144
This newly redesigned icemaker seal kit comes with a new shaft, seal and screw.
FAN BLADE – Part Number: WR60X117
$59.47
Special Order
FAN BLADE
Part #WR60X117

Common Symptoms of the CTF15CBC

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
93 of 110 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wanda from Cabins, WV
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Benicia, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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