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CSX24KWXAAD
CSX24KWXAAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the CSX24KWXAAD
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306944
Manufacturer #: WR72X240
This drawer slide rail is for the right side of your refrigerator. The drawer slide rail attaches horizontally to the refrigerator wall and supports the drawer so it can easily slide in and out. If th...
$42.55
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306943
Manufacturer #: WR72X239
This is a manufacturer-approved drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. This slide rail is for the left side of the fridge. All you need to complete this repair is a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the ...
$29.73
In Stock
Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$216.23
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
PartSelect #: PS964304
Manufacturer #: WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$15.58
In Stock
Door Closing Cam
PartSelect #: PS297995
Manufacturer #: WR2X4901
This single door closure cam is mounted on the door, not the hinge.
$25.45
In Stock
Dual Inlet Water Valve
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$61.57
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$47.33
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$9.03
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Defrost Timer
PartSelect #: PS310858
Manufacturer #: WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
$50.71
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
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Questions And Answers for CSX24KWXAAD
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Common Symptoms of the CSX24KWXAAD
[Viewing 20 of 20]Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Door won’t open or close
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Door Sweating
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Frost buildup
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Will Not Start
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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Parts Used:
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anthony from thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people
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Door would not automatically close.
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
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Parts Used:
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Gary from North eastham, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
175 of 189 people
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Refrigerator temp was warm
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c
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ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Parts Used:
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Adrian from Louisville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
124 of 143 people
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