This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in c...Read moreonnectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door...Read more flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
409 of 435 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r
... Read moreefrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).
1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator. 2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off. 3rd, remove the freezer shelves. 4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel. 5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator. 6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel. 7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool. 8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed. 9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain. 10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils. 11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils. 12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it. 13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws. 14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place. 15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer. 16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
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Cracked housing on the vaave
288 of 308 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
anthony from thornton, CO
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge. 2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy. 3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge. 4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place. 5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar
... Read moree still attached. 6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines. 7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections. - now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine. - the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine. 8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up. 9. Attach electrical lines. - the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going. 10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in. 11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open? 12. Unplug fridge 13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge. 14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place. 15. Plug fridge back in. 16. Take a clean glass. 17. Fill with water from the front. 18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
91 of 132 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Gerald from Benicia, CA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list
... Read more so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple. Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use. The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap. After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.