This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too co...
$27.00
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The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
$21.27
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This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$216.23
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This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$15.58
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If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$13.21
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This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
$9.17
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The ice bucket auger is located within the ice bucket assembly in your freezer. It stirs and dispenses the ice in the bucket. You may need to replace the auger if your ice maker is noisy, or not dispe...
$67.45
In Stock
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Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for CSHS6UGZBSS
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Steve
June 15, 2021
Do not know what part got hot it has quit working the inside of the fridge has got worm
And lights on the freezer door are just flashing it will not cool or dispense water
Inside lights work with it pugged in but the refriger will not work the lights on the door started flashing and not able to get water out of door and the frig just quit working
For model number CSHS6UGZBSS
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your question. If the refrigerator has stopped working, there are some parts that you will have to check see which one has caused the issue. The part that fixes this issue the majority of the time is the run capacitor. The run capacitor is the part that turns the compressor on and off to allow the refrigerator to maintain a constant temperature while keeping food in the freezer frozen. If the refrigerator is not getting cold this part may need to be replaced. To verify if this is the part that is causing the issue, you will need to test it with a multimeter. From our website, begin by ensuring you have unplugged your refrigerator, and then remove the rear panel. Locate and remove your overload or relay-start capacitor. On modern refrigerators the overload relay is usually a combined part and plugs directly onto the side of the compressor. There may also be a start capacitor attached to the relay overload assembly, which provides increased starting voltage to the compressor windings. To test, begin by discharging the capacitor, then set your multi-meter to the Rx1 setting and place the probes onto the terminals of the overload capacitor and/or the relay-start capacitor. The reading you should receive will vary from model to model and may be indicated on the outside of the capacitor, or in your owner’s manual. If your test does not produce the reading the manufacturer recommends, you need a replacement overload or relay-start capacitor. If your tests do produce the recommended readings, you may have a defective compressor, which will need to be tested by a qualified professional as it is a live circuit test. If this is not the issue, you will also need to check the start relay, the control boards and the temperature sensors. We hope this helps!
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Amy
October 10, 2022
I need to replace the dispenser panel as it is cracked. It’s functions but it looks terrible.
For model number CSHS6UGZBSS
Hello Amy, thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found that the part you are looking for is part number PS2340412. If you would like assistance placing an order, please contact customer service. Good luck with your repair!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry
... Read moreup top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I
... Read morehad to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
The flap to the ice dispenser would not close, which allowed the ice dispenser to frost up, freezing the water dispenser.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis
... Read morepenser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
