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CP320W Jenn-Air Grill - Overview

Diagrams for CP320W

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Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Surface Burner Switch - 240V – Part Number: W11120791
$78.26
In Stock
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #W11120791
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which in turn controls this switch. Made for various ranges, wall ovens and cooktops, this is a genuine OEM part that comes by itself, without any hardware like screws or nuts. This burner switch is an electrical component that you also handle directly, so it can become faulty leading to problems like your stovetop not heating enough, overheating or staying at a fixed heat. This burner switch is a vital component for your stovetop and if it presents any of those issues, it needs to be replaced immediately. A screwdriver, set of pliers and wiring diagram will be needed for the replacement and installation process, and you will need to remove your appliance from the wall outlet first. Remove the knobs from the control panel and then gain access to the underneath portion of it with your screwdriver and disconnect the switch. Remove the wires from the burner switch with a set of pliers and disconnect the securing screws holding the switch in place. Now, you can install the new switch and reassemble the panel, being mindful of wiring each connector to the appropriate wire.
Grill Element – Part Number: Y04100124
$81.04
In Stock
Grill Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #Y04100124
This Grill Element from Whirlpool is a genuine OEM part specifically engineered for optimal compatibility with select models from trusted brands like Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef. Designed with four flat terminals along with a shunt (jumper) between two terminals, it offers a round ground terminal and is adjusted to exclude a shunt in certain models. Do check your original element for compatibility. This product may present small variations in size and shape, despite a similar appearance, hence we urge you to verify your model's requirements before your purchase. Choose this genuine Whirlpool grill element to ensure durability, efficiency, and the continued high performance of your appliance. Trust Whirlpool for your appliance part needs combining innovation, strength, and dependability.
Air Inlet Grill – Part Number: 71001673
No Longer Available
Air Inlet Grill
Part #71001673
This part is located over top of the blower in the center of the stove top.
KNOB- INFI – Part Number: Y706096
No Longer Available
KNOB- INFI
Part #Y706096
USE WPL 5700M436-60 – Part Number: 12200018
$118.52
Special Order
USE WPL 5700M436-60
Part #12200018
Motor Assembly – Part Number: 700556
No Longer Available
Motor Assembly
Part #700556
Screw – Part Number: WP71001171
$7.47
Special Order
Screw
Part #WP71001171
USE WPL 4369683 – Part Number: 706003
No Longer Available
USE WPL 4369683
Part #706003
USE WPL 588550 – Part Number: 700450
$8.55
Special Order
USE WPL 588550
Part #700450
USE WPL 4153881 – Part Number: 706026
No Longer Available
USE WPL 4153881
Part #706026
USE WPL 4152969 – Part Number: 706061
No Longer Available
USE WPL 4152969
Part #706061

Common Symptoms of the CP320W

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Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
110 of 131 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James H from Oxford, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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Burner Control not Functioning
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from Mohnton, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
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Dual element burner only stays on high
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sherman from Perry, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the g lass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.
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