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CMO2743BL1 KitchenAid Microwave - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8206232A
$8.55
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(177)
Part #8206232A
This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and should be replaced. The bulb attaches directly to an appropriate light socket and has a small screw-in base. To access the exterior light bulb, you will need to remove the panel on the bottom of the microwave using a Phillips screwdriver. If your exterior light bulb has not been changed before, it is probably held in place with some silicone. You will need to cut away this silicone to remove the old bulb. If you cannot access the silicone with a utility knife, it can be removed using dental floss. Once the silicone is removed, simply unscrew the old bulb, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect the power to the microwave before you begin this repair. This light bulb measures about 1 1/8 inches. We do not recommend using a higher-wattage bulb for this appliance, and can only recommend this specific bulb. If fixing the bulb does not solve your microwave light issue, it's possibly a problem with the socket, which means the socket and/or board will need to be replaced. This can be a more dangerous repair, so consult your user manual or a technician before attempting.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$49.50
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperatures and makes cleanup simple. With approximate dimensions of 16 3/4 inches long, 12 3/4 inches wide, and 1 3/4 inches high, it offers a convenient size for everyday broiling and roasting.
Thermostat/Selector Knob – Part Number: WP4168403
$25.75
On Order
Thermostat/Selector Knob
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP4168403
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
Door Interlock Switch Kit – Part Number: 4392027
$89.70
In Stock
Door Interlock Switch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #4392027
This part is a genuine manufacturer door interlock switch kit, also known as primary micro switch or microwave switch kit, for a microwave. The function of this part is to sense when the door of the microwave is open or closed. If the part is defective, the microwave will not start or will start when door is open. This kit contains two 15 Amp, 125/250 Volt switches with 3/16 inch terminals. Be sure to disconnect power to microwave before replacing part. Use extreme caution when replacing microwave parts, as high-voltage capacitors can retain an electrical charge when unplugged. NOTE: This kit includes 2 single pole, double throw (SPDT) micro switches. As per the manufacture for the secondary interlock switch order part # 56001100.
Bake Element – Part Number: WP3177420
$88.82
Special Order
Bake Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WP3177420
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
Door Spring – Part Number: 4173048
No Longer Available
Door Spring
Part #4173048
Sold individually.
Rack – Part Number: 3185368
No Longer Available
Rack
Part #3185368
Fuse - 20Amp – Part Number: 661172
No Longer Available
Fuse - 20Amp
Part #661172
This part helps protect your appliance from short circuits and power surges.
SCREW – Part Number: 3400023
No Longer Available
SCREW
Part #3400023
SWTCH-LITE – Part Number: WP8189867
No Longer Available
SWTCH-LITE
Part #WP8189867
Magnetron – Part Number: WP4392009
No Longer Available
Magnetron
Part #WP4392009
This part is used to generate microwave energy/heat.

Common Symptoms of the CMO2743BL1

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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light bult needed to be replaced
222 of 329 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deborah from Millersville, MD
  • Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the li ght bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
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Bulb "burnt out"
98 of 165 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Pembroke, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 1 screw, removed "burnt out" bulb and replaced it with new bulb.
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Microwave worked intermittently depending on how door was closed
67 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Bainbridge Island, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and a lso took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!
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