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CGR3520BDT Magic Chef Range - Overview

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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$55.29
In Stock
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon) – Part Number: W11665456
$23.60
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
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(7)
Part #W11665456
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out as required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
Short Oven Sensor Kit – Part Number: 12001655
$35.80
In Stock
Short Oven Sensor Kit
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Part #12001655
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need replacing. This oven sensor is referred to as the short sensor and is 3 inches long. It should not be confused with the 6-inch-long sensor. The oven sensor is located on the back wall of the interior of the oven. Before starting this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven. If you are repairing a gas range, make sure to disconnect the gas source as well.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Range Door Gasket – Part Number: WPW10162384
$77.75
In Stock
Range Door Gasket
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Part #WPW10162384
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repairs to your oven you should make sure to wear work gloves to protect your hands, and give your oven time to cool. The only tool you will need to make this repair is a pair of needle nose pliers. This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips; if any retaining clips from your old gasket are left in the oven make sure to remove them before installing your new gasket.
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit – Part Number: 4318047
$47.40
In Stock
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
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Part #4318047
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. The kit includes the mounting hardware and bracket plastic tubing fittings. The retaining nut must be cut off the plastic water line and gently pushed into the new valve. To remove, press down on the ring that the tube slides into. Refer to the installation instructions for further guidance. Please note: the manufacturer has redesigned this part and it can appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection.
Surface Burner Knob – Part Number: WP74002353
$23.60
Special Order
Surface Burner Knob
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Part #WP74002353
This is a surface burner knob for the stovetop on your range. it is 2 inches in diameter and only accepts a D-shaped shaft. The part snaps into place on the shaft of your unit and rotates to the different selections available, allowing you to choose the temperature levels. The most common reason for needing to replace this part is if your current one has worn over time and needs an update.
Drip Pans - Kit of 4 – Part Number: 1430283
$75.13
In Stock
Drip Pans - Kit of 4
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Part #1430283
This set of four square chrome drip pans is designed to catch spills and protect the surface of select gas ranges and cooktops. Each pan measures just over 8 inches per side with a 3.5-inch center hole, providing a precise fit for the burner area. Constructed from chrome-plated metal, these OEM components offer durability and a polished appearance that complements most kitchen styles. By preventing food debris and liquids from reaching internal components, the drip pans help maintain appliance cleanliness and performance. Ideal for replacing worn or discolored pans, this kit is compatible with a variety of models and restores both function and aesthetics to your cooktop.
Dual Outlet Oven Safety Valve – Part Number: WP74006427
$224.79
In Stock
Dual Outlet Oven Safety Valve
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Part #WP74006427
This gas oven safety valve is used to make sure that no gas is released until the igniter is ready to ignite. This part is for both the bake and broil igniter in your appliance.
Range Anti-Tip Bracket – Part Number: WP3801F656-51
$8.55
In Stock
Range Anti-Tip Bracket
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(1)
Part #WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
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Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WP98008545
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WP98008545
Sold Individually.

Common Symptoms of the CGR3520BDT

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
172 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • george from birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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no water getting to ice maker
80 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Boston, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai r in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
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