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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
Model has been saved to My Models. If you're not signed in, your lists are available on this device and will expire within 30 days.
Model has been saved to My Models.
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no ...
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need repl...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repai...
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the ...
This is a surface burner knob for the stovetop on your range. it is 2 inches in diameter and only accepts a D-shaped shaft. The part snaps into place on the shaft of your unit and rotates to the diffe...
This set of four square chrome drip pans is designed to catch spills and protect the surface of select gas ranges and cooktops. Each pan measures just over 8 inches per side with a 3.5-inch center hol...
This gas oven safety valve is used to make sure that no gas is released until the igniter is ready to ignite. This part is for both the bake and broil igniter in your appliance.
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My
... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing
... Read morethe oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.
I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.
I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai
... Read morer in 10 minutes.
I pulled the fridge away from the wall.
I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.
I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.
I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.
Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.
I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.
I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.
My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
