This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, element does not heat, or gas igniter glows but does not light, replacing the igniter can solve these issues. For this installation, you will nee...Read mored a Phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers. First place the grate on top of the burner, then lift the burner and disconnect the wires. Next remove the two Phillips screws from the bottom of burner, pull igniter out of the burner and wiggle in the new one. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for more instructions.
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out a...Read mores required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need replacing. This oven sensor is referred to as the short sensor and is 3 inches long. It should not be confused with the 6-inch-long sensor. The ...Read moreoven sensor is located on the back wall of the interior of the oven. Before starting this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven. If you are repairing a gas range, make sure to disconnect the gas source as well.
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your oven will not start, element will not heat, the gas ignitor does not light, and/or gas spreads a smell. Make sure to rotate the burner asse...Read morembly clockwise to release the burner from the top. Please note: this part has been updated and the gasket seal is no longer required. Make sure to unplug the oven before installing this part and wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the range doors for the most effective performance. This seal is black in color and is made of rubber. If your oven is not heating evenly, has lit...Read moretle to no heat when baking, or is too hot, replacing the seal can solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are needle nose pliers. Make sure the oven is cool before starting this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
This orifice tube assembly is a genuine OEM replacement part for your gas range. This is a very easy repair. Start by removing the grates and use a strap wrench to loosen the burner heads. Disconnect the wires to the burner heads and unscrew the four screws to gain access under the main stovetop. Use a wrench to unscrew the gas lines to t...Read morehe orifice tube assembly. Install the new tube assembly and reassembly the remaining parts in reverse order.
This part is the replacement orifice and tube assembly for your range. It is approximately 18 inches by 4 inches and is made of metal. The orifice and tube assembly controls the gas coming from the surface burner tube. It includes the front and rear orifices for the left or right surface burners. Be sure to unplug the range and shut off t...Read morehe gas supply before you begin this repair. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
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BARBARA - For model number CGR1425ADW
March 17, 2020
The burners want strick you have to light with a match
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for your question. A normally functioning igniter will typically click up to three times before it sparks. But, every now and then you may run into instances where the igniter continues to click or tick even after the burner is lit, or the burner never lights at all. A clicking igniter typically is not dangerous and may continue to click if the gas is shut off. One of the most common sources of this issue is that the burner cap is out of place. Make sure the cooktop is completely cooled and remove the Burner Grate to access the cap. Try removing the cap and center it on the base. If the burner cap is askew, it can prevent the burner from lighting. If that doesn’t work, check for moisture. If you recently had a pot boil over on burner, a food or grease spill, or cleaned the cooktop, there may still be moisture present even if it looks dry. Remove the burner cap and give the burner time to air dry. To speed up the process, make sure all the burners are off and towel off the top of the range. You can then either use a fan aimed at the range top or set your oven to 350°F and leave it on for around 30 minutes to speed up dry time. If you see that there is debris stuck in the holes in the burner, that could also potentially be the culprit. You can use a metal pin or paper clip to clear the debris out of the grooves. Never use items such as toothpicks to do this, they may break off and get lodged inside. If you get through all of these tips and still have the clicking problem, it may be the spark module, spark ignition switch or the igniter itself. You can find replacements for your model stove for purchase on our website. If you feel comfortable, this is a repair you can do yourself. But, if you are ever unsure do not hesitate to contact a technician and consult your owner’s manual. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Richard - For model number CGR1425ADW
February 21, 2024
Top surface wont spark and has to be lit manually When oven is on they spark and light but not after the oven is off
Hi Richard, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding, we would recommend checking the spark ignition switch and wire harness, part number PS11749701. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Berwick, ME
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My
... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
172 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
george from birmingham, AL
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing
... Read morethe oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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gas burner ignitor failure
142 of 162 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
roy from East Providence, RI
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed t
... Read morehat rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
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