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CGA3C1 Crosley Range - Overview

Diagrams for CGA3C1

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Valve Knob – Part Number: WP7711P135-60
$36.85
In Stock
Valve Knob
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP7711P135-60
This valve knob is also known as control knob, burn valve, and burner knob. It fits on your stovetop or range to control the heat of the surface burner. No tools are required for this repair, simply remove your old knob by lifting straight up and off, and replace with the new knob by aligning the D-shapes on the shaft and knob and pushing straight down. This part is made of plastic, and is black in color. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft. It is sold individually, so consider checking other knobs in case they need to be replaced as well.
GRATE BURNER – Part Number: W11400301
No Longer Available
GRATE BURNER
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #W11400301
This square burner grate has sides measuring approximately nine inches. It is all black in color.
Burner Cap Kit – Part Number: W10125641
No Longer Available
Burner Cap Kit
Part #W10125641
Sold individually.
Burner Spark Ignition Switch – Part Number: WP7403P190-60
$65.73
In Stock
Burner Spark Ignition Switch
Part #WP7403P190-60
Sold individually.
Hinge - Left Side – Part Number: 3418A029-34
No Longer Available
Hinge - Left Side
Part #3418A029-34
The hinges allow the door to swing up and down. The hinges must be properly adjusted in order for the door to close properly.
Hinge - Right Side – Part Number: 3418A030-34
No Longer Available
Hinge - Right Side
Part #3418A030-34
The hinges allow the door to swing up and down. The hinges must be properly adjusted in order for the door to close properly.
Knob Kit - Six (6) Pieces – Part Number: 12500101
No Longer Available
Knob Kit - Six (6) Pieces
Part #12500101
Contains four (4) burner knobs and one (1) each of long and short shaft thermostat knobs.
SEAL – Part Number: 7212P001-60
No Longer Available
SEAL
Part #7212P001-60
PILOT Assembly. – Part Number: 1566267
No Longer Available
PILOT Assembly.
Part #1566267
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 7501P064-60
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #7501P064-60
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 7803P059-60
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #7803P059-60
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 7502P016-60
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #7502P016-60
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

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the burner knobs broke off
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Belinda from Downey, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I put the 2 burner knobs on and now I have 4 working burners....Thanks for the quick delivery....
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Igniter Switch on the burner was constantly on
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roman from West Caldwell, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To get to the switch I had to remove the knobs and the front panel of the burner valves. There were some dozen screws, top and bottom holding the panel in-place.
The switch slid off the burner valve stem easily but removing the wires I had to pull with the pliers. There seamed not to be a wire release that I could see.
Replacin g the wires was no problem. They slid into place by just pushing them in. Assembly was the reverse.
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Continuous sparking on all burners due to broken ignition switch
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hannah from AMHERST, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. I accessed the burner ignition switches by lifting off stove top, sliding off burner knobs and oven knob, and removing the front switch cover (secured with 4 screws on top and 2 screws underneath).

2. I diagnosed which switch was broken: all four switches are wired together, so one faulty switch will affect sparking on both the left and right sides of the stove. I suspected a particular switch because that burner had occasionally struggled to ignite in recent weeks and felt "loose" when turned on.

After unplugging the stove from the electrical outlet and turning on the range fan, I slid several of the switches off their gas valve stems. When comparing the suspect switch to two other switches, the suspect switch felt "loose" when rotated and didn't have the same places of resistance that the other two had.

Feeling more confident that I had found the broken switch, I used pliers to pull out the four wires connecting the suspect switch to the other switches -- it took a good bit of force, there's no convenient release. Now I could access the switch terminals, so I used a multimeter to confirm that the suspect switch didn't have any change in electrical resistance when turned on/off -- it was broken.

3. I removed the broken switch and wired its neighbors together. I plugged the stove back in and checked that this had solved the problem -- no more continuous sparking, and the other three burners still worked.

While I waited several days for the replacement switch to arrive, I reassembled everything besides the broken burner's knob (to remind me to not use that burner), and continued using the other three burners normally.

4. When the replacement switch arrived, I inserted the original four wires into the new switch's terminal holes in the original configuration (again, it took a little force), reassembled everything, and was good to go.
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