Models
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CFEF3052TSA
CFEF3052TSA Frigidaire Range - Overview
Sections of the CFEF3052TSA
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Infinite Burner Switch
PartSelect #: PS1145040
Manufacturer #: 316436001
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine wheth...
$43.86
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.73
In Stock
Electronic Clock Assembly
PartSelect #: PS12728848
Manufacturer #: 5304518660
This is the electronic clock timer mechanism only. The overlay or touch pad is NOT included. To get the overlay, please use the model# of your appliance to search.
$164.62
In Stock
PROBE
PartSelect #: PS11731754
Manufacturer #: 316233903
Note: Connector could be different than original. If so cut & splice wires together with porcelain wire nuts.
$22.73
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS437923
Manufacturer #: 316067902
Oven racks can become rusted or damaged from constant use, and need to be properly maintained and cleaned to keep them working properly. If you notice that your oven rack has been damaged or rusted, t...
$81.35
In Stock
Infinite Burner Switch - Small Element - 240V
PartSelect #: PS1145039
Manufacturer #: 316436000
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
$62.84
In Stock
DRAWER GLIDE
PartSelect #: PS12584887
Manufacturer #: 316407402
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If ...
$9.26
In Stock
GLASS
PartSelect #: PS11728351
Manufacturer #: 5304503232
This tempered glass is supplied by the original manufacturer and measures 20 inches by 13 inches. It is an inner door glass, designed for use in ranges/ovens and has several purposes which include pro...
$152.88
In Stock
Bake Element - 240V
PartSelect #: PS2345209
Manufacturer #: 316225001
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
$136.93
In Stock
Radiant Element with Limiter - 1200W
PartSelect #: PS1528719
Manufacturer #: 318178110
This is a six-inch radiant element with limiter. It works in conjunction with your stove top range. The purpose of this part is to heat up the cooking area that is located on top of the range, also kn...
$161.67
In Stock
Anti-Tip Kit
PartSelect #: PS3655242
Manufacturer #: 316112005
The anti-tip bracket kit comes with one metal bracket and two installation screws, and is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer. It prevents the freestanding oven, range, or stove from tippin...
$11.25
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CFEF3052TSA
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Common Symptoms of the CFEF3052TSA
[Viewing 10 of 10]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Touchpad does not respond
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Will not program
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
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passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Parts Used:
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William from Burke, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
125 of 137 people
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Oven elements would not heat
Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck t
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o the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.
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Parts Used:
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earl from seattle, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
118 of 132 people
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Range would not come on
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir ... Read more es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir ... Read more es.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
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Parts Used:
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MaryLou from Monroe, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 187 people
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