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CFEF3017USA
CFEF3017USA Frigidaire Range - Overview
Sections of the CFEF3017USA
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Infinite Burner Switch
PartSelect #: PS1145040
Manufacturer #: 316436001
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine wheth...
$43.86
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS1528542
Manufacturer #: 316490000
This genuine OEM oven probe is also known as an oven temperature sensor or range probe. This part is manufactured for a range, stove, or oven to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. The prob...
$47.25
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.73
In Stock
Infinite Burner Switch - Small Element - 240V
PartSelect #: PS1145039
Manufacturer #: 316436000
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
$62.84
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS1765356
Manufacturer #: 316496201
This part is found inside your oven. This oven rack comes in the color chrome and measures 24 inches in width and 16 inches in length. This is an extremely simple repair that requires no tools. The pa...
$121.67
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1537685
Manufacturer #: A316222301
This is an 8-inch drip bowl for your range or cooktop. It is made of porcelain and is black in color. Place the drip pan under your burner to catch food that may drip or spill while you cook. It is 10...
$11.77
In Stock
LENS
PartSelect #: PS16218465
Manufacturer #: 5304524341
The Frigidaire light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven. No tools are necessary to replace this item. After unplugging the appliance, slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing...
$10.90
In Stock
Bottom Panel
PartSelect #: PS977589
Manufacturer #: 316400601
This is used as the "floor" of the oven cabinet.
Note: Does not come with rivets or screws. Must be purchased locally.
$139.23
In Stock
DRAWER GLIDE
PartSelect #: PS12584887
Manufacturer #: 316407402
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If ...
$9.26
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1537684
Manufacturer #: A316222201
This drip bowl is a genuine OEM replacement part for your stovetop. It is black in color, made of porcelain, and six inches in diameter. To replace the drip pan, you simply need to remove the burner e...
$10.19
In Stock
Anti-Tip Kit
PartSelect #: PS3655242
Manufacturer #: 316112005
The anti-tip bracket kit comes with one metal bracket and two installation screws, and is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer. It prevents the freestanding oven, range, or stove from tippin...
$11.25
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CFEF3017USA
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Common Symptoms of the CFEF3017USA
[Viewing 10 of 10]Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Will not program
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more
passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Parts Used:
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William from Burke, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
125 of 137 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m ... Read more etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m ... Read more etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
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Parts Used:
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Richard from Centennial, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
57 of 67 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven,
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and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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Parts Used:
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Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
64 of 93 people
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