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CEX210VW1
CEX210VW1 Roper Range - Overview
Sections of the CEX210VW1
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Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
PartSelect #: PS11750107
Manufacturer #: WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookw...
$7.67
In Stock
Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS340571
Manufacturer #: 330031
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to...
$13.42
In Stock
Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W
PartSelect #: PS11743367
Manufacturer #: WP660533
The surface burner or element on your range provides the heat that you cook with. If your element will not heat, you may need to replace the surface burner. This surface burner is 8 inches in diameter...
$36.93
In Stock
Standard Y-Frame Range Surface Burner
PartSelect #: PS11743366
Manufacturer #: WP660532
The standard y-frame surface burner provides heat to your range. If you notice that your element will not heat, you may need to replace your surface burner. This product is 6 inches in diameter, and 1...
$30.15
In Stock
Surface Element Switch
PartSelect #: PS12070192
Manufacturer #: W10900107
A surface element switch, also known as a burner/infinite switch, is a device used to control and regulate the heat output of the burners on a stovetop or cooktop. This switch is controlled with a kno...
$52.73
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CEX210VW1
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Common Symptoms of the CEX210VW1
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8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap
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. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
60 of 71 people
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1 had 2 large burners not working at all, and was cooking everything on the 2 smaller burners
It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.
Parts Used:
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Mary from Lebanon, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
27 of 30 people
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
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placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Parts Used:
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Phillip from Pekin, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
14 of 15 people
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