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CE4317L2 Whirlpool Washer - Overview

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Blower Wheel – Part Number: 56000
$68.86
In Stock
Blower Wheel
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #56000
If your dryer is noisy, will not tumble, or is not producing enough heat, you may need to replace the blower wheel. This part is white in color, and is made of plastic. This part is approximately 8 inches in diameter. The blower wheel is located near the bottom of your dryer cabinet. To access it for this repair, you will need to remove both the front panel and the front bulkhead assembly. Before you begin this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source to the dryer. To complete this repair, you will need a 5/16 inch nut driver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a pair of locking pliers and a 7/8 socket with a short extension and a ratchet.
Idler Pulley Shaft – Part Number: WP56461
$74.08
Special Order
Idler Pulley Shaft
Part #WP56461
This shaft is made to fit the center of the idler pulley wheel of many clothes dryers. It is less than two inches long, and is made of metal.
Heating Element Kit - Red Dot – Part Number: 61927
$95.83
In Stock
Heating Element Kit - Red Dot
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(2)
Part #61927
This 240 volt heating element is used for electric clothes dryers. Included with this element is a fuse kit consisting of a thermal fuse, a high limit thermostat, two wire leads, and four mounting screws.
Washer Screw Ground – Part Number: WP3351614
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Screw Ground
Part #WP3351614
Cycling Thermostat - Limit: 140-15 – Part Number: 56410
No Longer Available
Cycling Thermostat - Limit: 140-15
Part #56410
This cycling thermostat has a limit of 140 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 15 degrees. This means that with this thermostat, your dryer's heating element will cut out at 140 degrees Fahrenheit and cycle back on when the dryer's internal temperature drops by 15 degrees.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP3400094
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP3400094
Sold individually. (10-32 X 3/8)

Common Symptoms of the CE4317L2

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Blower fan cracked
44 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Birch Run, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then repla ce the cover and put front panels back on.
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Heating element went bad
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Conyers, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I couldn't find any information on the internet on how to fix my dryer, so I took every screw out of it, which I later found was not needed - just 2 in the front. Then I had to figure out WHERE the element was. Turns out, against the back panel with 2 screws. I had to crawl on my belly to get in there with little room to work. Installing the new one didn't take long at all though. I also vacuumed out the inside and cleaned it well, then put all the screws back in it.

I'm glad I re-did all the screws because now it sounds brand new. It's 3 times quieter than it ever was (it was donated to me), and it feels great that I was able to fix it on my own for about $50.
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Taking too long for clothes to dry.
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Eagle, ID
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first unplugged the dryer (don't want to get nailed with 240 volts). I then removed the two screws on the bottom section of the dryer just below the door. I then removed the two screws on the front door assembly and removed the door (make sure you don't break the wires and/or door switch. The wires need to be removed from the door sw itch prior to removing the door panel completely). I then took a flash light and look inside the dryer towards the back. I could see the heating element in the back. I then removed the two screws holding the heat element and removed the heating element (taking note on the orientation of the element). I then removed the black and orange wires making note which wire fit on which terminal. I then compared the old unit with the new unit to make sure I had the right one. I then assembled the new heating element (heat sensors etc.). I then hooked the black and orange wire to the new element. I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.

Note: I very CAREFULLY used the heating elements support connectors to hold the element in place while I started my screws. Once they were started then I could release the element and fit it properly into the housing as I tightened the screws.

The other thing that you need to check is to make sure that the air-duct is not blocked. If you have a lot of lent on the bottom of the dyer (inside) then you could have a blocked air-duct. This happened to me. I went outside and noticed that we have a door on our vent that flips up to keep mice etc. from coming in. Some of the lint that was blown out got wet from the sprinklers and calcified underneath the vent. This was preventing the vent from opening. This could of been our problem all along but I had already replaced the heating element so I keep it as is.

PartSelect was wonderful. I was able to find my parts quickly and the turn around time was tremendous. I would buy from PartSelect again.
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