This chrome drip bowl is designed for use with electric cooktops and ranges. This drip bowl is sold individually. At the widest point this part has a diameter of approximately 10 inches. It sits beneath the surface burner element. It catches any drips or spills coming from the cookware on your burner. Because the cooktop is a high-traffic...Read more area of the kitchen, these bowls often get damaged, or get so dirty they can no longer be adequately cleaned. When replacing this part you need to remove the burner element. While you have it out we recommend inspecting the terminals and the element for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. Any of those things could be a sign of a bigger problem, and it indicates that the element and terminal block should be replaced.
The drip bowl catches grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. They are located under the heating elements. Drip bowls are often neglected and can become rusted and cracked. If your drip bowl is damaged, it could allow grease, food, or other spills to drip inside your range. This could become a fire hazard. This 6 inch ...Read morechrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. To replace the drip bowl, remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. This part is sold individually.
This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If your range/oven is having symptoms such as burner not heating, heating elements not working, burning smell, or if the oven is making a buzzin...Read moreg noise then this could be the solution. The tools needed to replace the kit are wire strippers, a heat gun or hair dryer, and #1 square heard screw driver. Refer to the installation/instructional video for further guidance to accurately replace the element.
If the burner element on your range will not heat up, or is damaged, it may need to be replaced. This part is 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller 6-inch model. The part is 220 Volts and 4 Turn. The burner element connects to the terminal block inside the range. To do this repair, simply remove the old surface...Read more element and replace it with the new part. This product is sold individually. As the surface element is hot when it is on, be sure to unplug the range from the power source before completing this repair.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This part is sold individually. This is a part for your stove top. The surface element is what your cookware sits on. The element supplies heat at varying temperatures. This may need to be replaced if the coil has shorted out or the terminal block shorted, and this caused the connectors at the end to burn out. The element is set in place ...Read moreby springs. You will need to push the springs in to release the old element. Make sure the drip bowl is lined up with the terminal block and press the new element into place.
This is a burner switch kit, also known as the surface element control switch repair kit, for ranges. This burner switch kit sends voltage to the surface element coil and it controls the stove top surface burner. If the following symptoms occur, installing the switch could be the solution to the problem: surface element not heating, overh...Read moreeating, or inconsistent heating. Usually, if the element is not defective, that is a sign there is an issue with the switch. The kit comes with several insert sizes, and includes screws as well. The tools needed for this project are a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers.
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics. Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals
... Read moremay not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
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Right front burner would over-heat
23 of 27 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Melvin from Attica, MI
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered. When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.