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CDWT980V50SS General Electric Dishwasher - Overview

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Dishwasher Basket Assembly Silverware – Part Number: WD28X24469
$42.78
In Stock
Dishwasher Basket Assembly Silverware
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Part #WD28X24469
This basket is part of a silverware basket that has 3 sections. This is the middle section of the basket.
Complete Lower Service Rack Assembly – Part Number: WD28X25960
$160.61
In Stock
Complete Lower Service Rack Assembly
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(67)
Part #WD28X25960
This complete lower rack assembly is a genuine replacement part designed for select GE dishwashers, including models sold under Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café brands. Engineered to securely hold plates, bowls, pots, and pans during the wash cycle, it ensures optimal water coverage and prevents breakage. Constructed from high-quality materials, the rack offers long-lasting durability and resistance to heat and detergent wear. Newer versions may feature an enhanced wheel assembly with protective coverings that keep the wheels aligned and prevent detachment, allowing for smoother sliding in and out of the dishwasher. Common signs that replacement is needed include difficulty moving the rack, rust or discoloration, broken tines, and poor cleaning performance due to misaligned dishware.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WD15X10014
$44.23
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
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(56)
Part #WD15X10014
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
Detergent Dispenser with Rinse Cap – Part Number: WD12X10163
$79.64
In Stock
Detergent Dispenser with Rinse Cap
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Part #WD12X10163
This detergent dispenser assembly is attached to the inner door panel of a dishwasher. This part holds detergent and dishwasher rinse products in a covered container. If your dispenser will not open, close, dispense detergent properly, or the dishes are coming out of the dishwasher dirty, replacing this part can solve these problems. The tools needed for this installation project are a #2 Phillips screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. To repair, first remove screws from the bottom of the inner door panel. Next, remove connecters, wires, and screws from the dispenser to access it and replace with new dispenser. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and guidance. Unplug dishwasher from power source as a safety precaution.
Tub Gasket – Part Number: WD08X10032
$51.65
In Stock
Tub Gasket
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Part #WD08X10032
This gasket lines the inside cabinet in the dishwasher.
Hinge Arm Link – Part Number: WD14X10009
$16.05
In Stock
Hinge Arm Link
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Part #WD14X10009
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In this case, you will need to replace the hinge link. Pull out your dishwasher to inspect the hinge and spring, if the link is broken, it may be disconnected and on the ground already. If not, you can remove the hinge arm link by simply disconnecting it from the hinge and spring, then replacing it with the new part. The hinge arm link is a small piece of white plastic about an inch and a half long. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part from the manufacturer.
Rinse Aid Cap – Part Number: WD12X10122
$19.08
In Stock
Rinse Aid Cap
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Part #WD12X10122
This genuine rinse-aid dispenser cap is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with GE dishwashers. It covers the rinse agent port and securely seals the dispenser to keep the rinse aid contained until it's needed during the wash cycle. The cap is commonly replaced if it becomes lost or damaged. No tools are required for installation, making it a quick and easy fix. This part is sold individually and is built to meet OEM standards for compatibility and performance.
Tine Retainer – Part Number: WD12X10116
No Longer Available
Tine Retainer
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(2)
Part #WD12X10116
This dishwasher retainer connects to the removable tine.
Screw 8-16 hxw 1/2 Stainless Steel – Part Number: WD02X10067
$16.05
On Order
Screw 8-16 hxw 1/2 Stainless Steel
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(2)
Part #WD02X10067
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, ensuring stable and effective spray arm performance. Sold individually, this durable metal fastener requires a nutdriver for proper installation.
Sump – Part Number: WD18X10026
$49.58
In Stock
Sump
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(22)
Part #WD18X10026
This works in conjunction with the pump and filtration system. It is used to receive drainage for disposal.
ARM SPRAY UPPER Assembly – Part Number: WD22X10084
No Longer Available
ARM SPRAY UPPER Assembly
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(2)
Part #WD22X10084
The upper spray arm helps distribute water from the top of the dishwasher tub.
Door Hinge Cable – Part Number: WD01X10393
$53.08
In Stock
Door Hinge Cable
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Part #WD01X10393
This part is the replacement door hinge cable for your dishwasher. The door hinge cable connects the door spring to the door hinge, and allows the door to open in a controlled fashion. If you open your dishwasher and the door drops down quickly, your door hinge cable may need to be replaced. Be sure to disconnect the water and power sources from the dishwasher before you begin this repair. The door hinge cable is sold individually.

Manuals & Care Guides for CDWT980V50SS

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Common Symptoms of the CDWT980V50SS

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soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
100 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Naperville, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo r.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
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Heating element rusted and cracked
89 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Jersey City, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
65 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Burlington, VT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).

You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.

Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.

Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!

Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
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