The high limit kit comes with three separate thermal fuses for dryers. One electric thermal fuse with a limit of 258, one gas high limit at 240, and one gas and electric high limit thermostat with a limit at 300. The thermal fuse kit shuts off the motor in the dryer when it begins to overheat. If the dryer will not heat, is overheated, sh...Read moreuts off too soon, or takes too long to dry then the thermal fuse might have exploded and need to be replaced. For replacement instructions refer to the diagram by manufacturer. For safety, unplug the dryer before installing the part.
This dryer heating element kit is 240 volts and 4750 watts. The function of the heating element is to produce the heat that allows you to dry your clothing during your dryer cycle. If your clothes take too long to dry, or if your dryer is not getting any heat or enough heat, you may need to replace your element. Before you begin your repa...Read moreir, make sure to disconnect the power from the dryer. The tools you will need for this repair include a putty knife, a quarter-inch nut driver, and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clothes dryer has any of the following symptoms then replacing the clamp can be a solution: making loud noises, not producing enough heat or no...Read more heat at all, and/or clothes are taking too long to dry. Make sure to unplug thedryer from power source before installing this part and refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
The rear dryer drum roller functions by holding the drum in place while the drum rotates on support wheels during the drying spin/tumble cycle. Included in this rear drum support roller kit are four screws, one spacer, two washers, two retaining rings, two rear rollers, and two cylinder support shafts. The drum support roller kit may need...Read more to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. Important note: This kit has been updated by the genuine manufacturer to have one spacer that is the thickness of two spacers. Please search by model number to get these parts separately.
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts and screws in order to hold items firmly together. This piece is a fastener that attaches one item to another. This part has several advantage...Read mores, the main one being that it is universal and can be used with most pieces and appliances in your home. This hex nut is an original equipment manufacturer part, meaning it is directly sourced from the manufacturer.
This rear drum support roller stabilizes the dryer drum and holds it in place during the drying cycle while the drum rotates on the support wheels. If your dryer is making loud squeaking or thumping noises, or the dryer will not tumble, there could be an issue with your rear drum support roller. If you can see that the roller is damaged, ...Read moreyou should replace it right away. The repair is relatively easy, and takes between 15 minutes and 1 hour to complete. This drum support roller works with electric or gas clothes dryers, is sold individually, has an outside diameter of about three inches, and comes with a bearing.
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Electric dryer would not heat - Thermal fuses - $25 fix - I love DIY
218 of 239 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Ronald from Fredericksburg, VA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet 2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift. 3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum 4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse 5. Unplug red wires to the heating element 6. Unlug
... Read more white wires to the high limit fuse 7. Remove high limit thermal fuse 8. Remove heating element 9. Remove high limit fuse 10 Clean heating box Installation is reverse order but do the following first! Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer 1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right 2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom 3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list. 4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on. 5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.
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Dry stopped heating - still had good air flow
211 of 241 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Brianna from Littleton, CO
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Socket set
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.
This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$: (1) Disconnected power (2) Opened the
... Read moretop of the dryer (3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor. (4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor (5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element. (6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element. (7) Reassembled new element. (8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.
Worked like a charm!
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Dryer squeaking really badly
75 of 77 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Michelle from Kirkwood, MO
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The whee
... Read morel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.
I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.
Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.