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CAF19DMC General Electric Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for CAF19DMC

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10014
No Longer Available
Evaporator Fan Motor
Part #WR60X10014
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
Front Shelf Trim – Part Number: WR17X6451
No Longer Available
Front Shelf Trim
Part #WR17X6451
FAN BLADE – Part Number: WR60X139
$62.39
Special Order
FAN BLADE
Part #WR60X139
KIT-TOP HINGE – Part Number: WR12X10617
$48.45
Special Order
KIT-TOP HINGE
Part #WR12X10617
GASKET SECONDARY – Part Number: WR14X5097
No Longer Available
GASKET SECONDARY
Part #WR14X5097
Breather Valve – Part Number: WR17X6045
$40.02
Special Order
Breather Valve
Part #WR17X6045
Drain Hose – Part Number: WR17X5367
No Longer Available
Drain Hose
Part #WR17X5367
HANDLE – Part Number: WR12X5207
No Longer Available
HANDLE
Part #WR12X5207
HEATER – Part Number: WR51X5186
No Longer Available
HEATER
Part #WR51X5186
SENSOR ALARM – Part Number: WR50X5037
$195.14
Special Order
SENSOR ALARM
Part #WR50X5037

Common Symptoms of the CAF19DMC

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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