The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depresse...Read mored, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
This OEM high-limit thermostat kit includes the thermal cut-off fuse and the high-limit thermostat. The purpose of this part is to cut-off power to the dryer when it overheats. Common indications that this part requires replacement are if your dryer will not start, it is overheating, or no heat is coming from the dryer at all. Please note...Read more that the manufacturer has made updates to this part so it may look different from the original.
This is a replacement pack of sheet metal screws for your refrigerator. These are Phillips-head screws, and are approximately ¾ of an inch long. This package contains 12 screws. These screws are typically used to attach your refrigerator or freezer door handles to the door. These screws are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This is a self-tapping sheet metal screw and is used in conjunction with multiple appliances in your household. This part is size eight and has 18 threads to the inch. The AB in the name indicates that it is a self-tapping screw with sharp points and fine threads. This part has a hexagonal head with built in washer, but is often referred ...Read moreto as simply a hex head. This screw is 9/16 inches in length. This piece is sold individually.
This water tubing clip, also known as a P-clamp, is usually used within refrigerators and freezers to organize the water line and tubing, but due to its versatility, this clip may also be used in other applications, like securing other cables. Made of metal and measuring approximately 1-inch in length, this clip features a hole on each si...Read morede to allow you to screw it into the side of your appliance and secure the appropriate valve, tube, or cable. This clip is a genuine OEM part that is sold individually.
This is a door shelf retainer bar end cap kit for a refrigerator. This kit contains two end caps that are made entirely of plastic and are white in color. They are each under 2 inches tall. This part does not include other shelving parts such as the front shelf trim or retainer bar. They are located on the refrigerator or freezer door. Th...Read moree end cap snaps into place on the door above the door shelf to attach the door shelf rail to the inner door liner. No tools are required for this repair, simply snap the part onto the door lining and attach the rail. This is an OEM replacement part from the genuine manufacturer.
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue with your cord if you notice that the refrigerator will not turn on, or intermittently turns on and off. Check the cord for fraying, or other v...Read moreisible damage. If the power cord shows any signs of damage, replace the cord immediately as it could become an electrical or fire hazard. Before you begin this repair, ensure that the power is disconnected from the unit, and that all food that could ruin is stored away while the power is off.
The defrost control in your refrigerator acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater, keeping your refrigerator at the appropriate temperature. If you notice that your refrigerator seems too warm or too cool, you may need to replace the defrost control. This part is...Read more made of white plastic and contains 4 metal prongs that connect to your refrigerator. This part is sold individually. The defrost control is located at the back of your refrigerator, inside the control housing. To access this part, you will need to unhinge your light cover, and disconnect the air inlet assembly from the control housing.
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Sticking Light Switch
121 of 177 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jania from Novato, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Terry from Simi Valley, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s
... Read moreo it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope