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CA19DLE General Electric Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for CA19DLE

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Shoulder Screw – Part Number: WR01X10623
$15.00
In Stock
Shoulder Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR01X10623
This is a self-tapping sheet metal screw and is used in conjunction with multiple appliances in your household. This part is size eight and has 18 threads to the inch. The AB in the name indicates that it is a self-tapping screw with sharp points and fine threads. This part has a hexagonal head with built in washer, but is often referred to as simply a hex head. This screw is 9/16 inches in length. This piece is sold individually.
Water Tubing Clip – Part Number: WR1X5278
$15.00
In Stock
Water Tubing Clip
Part #WR1X5278
This water tubing clip, also known as a P-clamp, is usually used within refrigerators and freezers to organize the water line and tubing, but due to its versatility, this clip may also be used in other applications, like securing other cables. Made of metal and measuring approximately 1-inch in length, this clip features a hole on each side to allow you to screw it into the side of your appliance and secure the appropriate valve, tube, or cable. This clip is a genuine OEM part that is sold individually.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap Kit – Part Number: WR2X9486
No Longer Available
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR2X9486
This is a door shelf retainer bar end cap kit for a refrigerator. This kit contains two end caps that are made entirely of plastic and are white in color. They are each under 2 inches tall. This part does not include other shelving parts such as the front shelf trim or retainer bar. They are located on the refrigerator or freezer door. The end cap snaps into place on the door above the door shelf to attach the door shelf rail to the inner door liner. No tools are required for this repair, simply snap the part onto the door lining and attach the rail. This is an OEM replacement part from the genuine manufacturer.
Power Cord – Part Number: WR23X10300
$57.26
Special Order
Power Cord
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR23X10300
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue with your cord if you notice that the refrigerator will not turn on, or intermittently turns on and off. Check the cord for fraying, or other visible damage. If the power cord shows any signs of damage, replace the cord immediately as it could become an electrical or fire hazard. Before you begin this repair, ensure that the power is disconnected from the unit, and that all food that could ruin is stored away while the power is off.
R134 DRIER – Part Number: WR86X25269
$64.76
In Stock
R134 DRIER
Part #WR86X25269
The filter dryer filters refrigerant that travels through the sealed system of the refrigerator.
Drain Plug – Part Number: WR02X10073
No Longer Available
Drain Plug
Part #WR02X10073
Tubular Fastener – Part Number: WR2X4990
$20.37
Special Order
Tubular Fastener
Part #WR2X4990
SUPPORT – Part Number: WR2X7621
No Longer Available
SUPPORT
Part #WR2X7621
SUPPORT – Part Number: WR2X7622
No Longer Available
SUPPORT
Part #WR2X7622
Thermostat Control – Part Number: WR9X5224
No Longer Available
Thermostat Control
Part #WR9X5224
SHELF SUPT – Part Number: WR2X6250
No Longer Available
SHELF SUPT
Part #WR2X6250

Common Symptoms of the CA19DLE

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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