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BVM210VS (Type1) Poulan Leaf Blower / Vacuum - Overview

Diagrams for BVM210VS

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Fuel Line (25" Length) – Part Number: 530069247
$12.81
In Stock
Fuel Line (25" Length)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #530069247
This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646
$9.62
In Stock
Engine Fuel Filter
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★★★★★
(4)
Part #530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filter is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216
$17.55
In Stock
Purge Line
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #530069216
This is the Genuine Craftsman replacement part. It is made out of Flexible Rubber and is Sold Individually. The purpose of the 530069216 Tank Purge Line is to return the excess fuel that is in the carburetor after the primer bulb has been pushed. The excess fuel is forced through the purge line back into the fuel tank. Over time the Tank Purge Line will become brittle and crack and will need to be replaced.
Piston Ring – Part Number: 545154009
$6.95
In Stock
Piston Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #545154009
This OEM Piston Ring is used to provide a seal between the piston and cylinder wall. It attaches around the piston, inside the groove. It will require a screwdriver, allen wrench, torx wrench and socket set and is rated as "Hard" to install. The part is silver, metal, and individually sold. If broken due to general wear/fatigue you will have poor compression within the cylinder, causing a loss of power. If broken, damaged or worn, the part should be replaced. Refer to your make, model, and diagram to ensure this is the correct part.
Air Filter Foam – Part Number: 545146501
$7.65
In Stock
Air Filter Foam
Part #545146501
This genuine OEM foam air filter is designed to protect the carburetor and engine of your blower by preventing debris from entering. It is housed within an air filter cover. If the filter shows signs of tears, holes, or excessive dirt buildup, it is considered broken. Not replacing a damaged or clogged foam air filter can lead to various consequences. The engine may suffer from reduced performance, decreased fuel efficiency, and increased wear and tear over time. To replace the filter, access the air box filter cover on your machine and remove the old filter. Refer to your user guide for specific installation instructions. It may be recommended to apply two-cycle oil to the packaging and allow the filter to absorb it. Afterward, remove the filter from the packaging and gently squeeze out any excess oil using a paper towel. This replacement part is sold individually.
Grass Catching Bag – Part Number: 530095564
$35.15
In Stock
Grass Catching Bag
Part #530095564
This OEM Vacuum Bag holds grass and leaf clippings when the blower is switched to vacuum mode, and is attached to the exit port. It is constructed of white fabric. If broken due to wear/fatigue it will no longer be able to hold clippings and should be replaced. Refer to your make, model and diagrams to see if this is the right part for your machine.
Flywheel – Part Number: 545221701
$39.55
In Stock
Flywheel
Part #545221701
This flywheel is an authentic manufacturer replacement part for use with lawn and outdoor equipment. The flywheel is a heavy, circular disc that has magnets that create an electric charge sent to the spark plug to create the spark that ignites the fuel and air mixture in the engine. It is attached to the engine crankshaft by a key known as a shear pin or flywheel key. This assembly is a critical component in the starting and running of your power equipment. Over time, the magnets on the flywheel will wear down, and the flywheel may chip and crack. A faulty flywheel will result in a loss of power, excessive shaking during use, and difficulty starting the equipment. Remove the flywheel using a flywheel puller. Position the new flywheel on the crankshaft and secure it with the retaining nut and flywheel key. This flywheel is sold as an individual replacement part.
Tube – Part Number: 545099401
$39.55
In Stock
Tube
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(2)
Part #545099401
Tubes on leaf blowers are not only used to project air, but also suction it and guide any debris from your yard into your blower collection bag. This upper tube is designed for and compatible with various models of leaf blower vacuum and is made of plastic. Measuring approximately 18-inches in length, this tube connects to a lower tube and is used as the connecting tube to the leaf blower itself. Over time and through use, leaf blower tubes can crack and break or simply not connect, and if your tube is broken it needs to be replaced. To replace this tube, simply twist the tube clockwise to remove it, and twist the new tube on counterclockwise until a click is felt.
Start Spring – Part Number: 545008014
$14.25
In Stock
Start Spring
Part #545008014
This is a genuine OEM approved replacement starter spring is specially designed for use with gandheld gas powered blowers and trimmers. The purpose of this spring is to retract the starter assembly on the engine, so it engages the drive cup on the flywheel to start the engine when pulled. This spring is made out of metal and it is sold individually.
Gasket Set – Part Number: 545081832
$26.35
In Stock
Gasket Set
Part #545081832
This O-ring gasket kit is an authentic manufacturer replacement kit used in leaf blowers. It includes the muffler shield, carburetor gasket, cylinder base gasket, and crankshaft oil seal/O-ring. The muffler shield protects the engine muffler and prevents accidental burning or damage to the surrounding components. The carburetor gasket seals the area between the carburetor and intake manifold to prevent fuel and air leakages. The cylinder base gasket seals the area between the engine cylinder and the engine block to prevent combustion gases from escaping. The crankshaft O-ring prevents oil leakages. These gaskets can fail at the same time, due to wear, aging, or damage, leading to leakages, loss of pressure, and decreased equipment performance. If you notice difficulties in starting and running the leaf blower, you will likely need to replace these gaskets. This kit is designed to allow you to replace these gaskets all at once for optimal engine performance and savings. To complete the repair, you will need needle nose pliers, a T-27 Torx bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.
Tube – Part Number: 545151201
$10.95
In Stock
Tube
Part #545151201
This restrictor nozzle is a genuine OEM part found at the end of the lower blower tube/nozzle. It narrows the tube opening to create a concentrated stream of air that moves faster, and with more precision. Over time the restrictor nozzle may become damaged, blocked, or fall out of alignment with the tube. Once the nozzle is no longer functioning, it will be unable to control the airflow or provide high power output. Replacing the restrictor nozzle is a simple repair which does not require any tools or fasteners. Simply twist and pull the nozzle from the tube. Align the new nozzle with the opening on the tube and twist it into place. Ensure that it is firmly locked in position before attempting to use the blower again.
Screw Catcher – Part Number: 530015814
$5.95
In Stock
Screw Catcher
Part #530015814
This is a standard hardware which has multiple applications based on your tool. It is sourced from original equipment manufacturer for use with a variety of power equipment. Please refer to diagrams for proper application. This screw is made out of metal and it is sold individually. Requires a hex key or an allen wrench to install or remove it.

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Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
56 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
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installing fuel through fuel tank wall
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from BROCKTON, MA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
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Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from UNICOI, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica l. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.
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