Models > BCS42ELB

BCS42ELB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the BCS42ELB

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Manuals & Care Guides for BCS42ELB

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Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
Dual Inlet Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$61.57
  In Stock
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Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: WR9X502
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS310869
Manufacturer #: WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you...
$93.29
  In Stock
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Plastic Tube - 1/4 Inch – Part Number: WR17X11349
Plastic Tube - 1/4 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS758904
Manufacturer #: WR17X11349
$8.06
  In Stock
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EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT – Part Number: WR60X30349
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS12583205
Manufacturer #: WR60X30349
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
$53.42
  In Stock
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Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X214
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306918
Manufacturer #: WR72X214
  No Longer Available
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V – Part Number: WR60X187
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS304731
Manufacturer #: WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra...
$234.08
  In Stock
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Power Cord – Part Number: WR23X10300
Power Cord
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS759476
Manufacturer #: WR23X10300
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue wit...
$29.54
  In Stock
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Mounting Grommet – Part Number: WR2X7238
Mounting Grommet
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS298408
Manufacturer #: WR2X7238
The mounting grommet is black in color, made of plastic, measures 1 inch in diameter, and is sold individually. It is collared around the edge to keep it in place. This part is used to help hold the c...
  No Longer Available
Relay PTCR - 2 Wire – Part Number: WR07X10011
Relay PTCR - 2 Wire
PartSelect #: PS287809
Manufacturer #: WR07X10011
The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
  No Longer Available
Defrost Thermostat Kit – Part Number: WR50X45
Defrost Thermostat Kit
PartSelect #: PS303514
Manufacturer #: WR50X45
This defrost thermostat kit comes with the installation with wires, mounting brackets, and wire connectors. L45-20.
  No Longer Available
De-Icing Kit – Part Number: WR49X10021
De-Icing Kit
PartSelect #: PS303160
Manufacturer #: WR49X10021
This part should be installed by an appliance repair person as it could be dangerous. This part may be used to help prevent your evaporator fan from becoming blocked with ice. This part also insulat...
$460.36
  In Stock
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Fan Blade with Clamp – Part Number: WR60X123
Fan Blade with Clamp
PartSelect #: PS304693
Manufacturer #: WR60X123
This blade attaches to the evaporator motor.
$106.19
  In Stock
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Questions And Answers for BCS42ELB

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Common Symptoms of the BCS42ELB

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Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
Parts Used:
Dual Inlet Water Valve
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people found this instruction helpful.
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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Wanda from Cabins, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
86 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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display showed dE
popped off front grille, removed 2 screws for bracket, then had to remove one screw for timer. unplugged old timer, reversed procedure, all works.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Nancy from Hamburg, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
74 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
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