EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

B4007B1 Roper Range - Overview

Diagrams for B4007B1

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
$16.07
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
Part #330031
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to the inner wiring of your appliance. Without this connection your burner element would not get the electrical current it needs to heat up. When your element will not heat at all, or if it is not heating properly it is likely an issue with the terminal block. You need to remove the element to replace this part. While you have the element out, inspect the element and the terminal for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. If you notice any damage to the element or the terminals we recommend you replace this part as well. This kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped high-temperature wire leads, two ceramic wire nuts, two heat-shrinking insulators, and a mounting screw. Before you begin this repair, make sure you have unplugged your appliance.
Range Round Carborundum Oven Igniter – Part Number: 4342528
$70.35
In Stock
Range Round Carborundum Oven Igniter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
Part #4342528
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attracting electrical currents through the safety valve to open it. *Please note: this does not replace the flat style igniters. If your gas igniter does not start, glows but does not light, or produces little to no heat when baking, replacing this part could be the solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$49.50
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperatures and makes cleanup simple. With approximate dimensions of 16 3/4 inches long, 12 3/4 inches wide, and 1 3/4 inches high, it offers a convenient size for everyday broiling and roasting.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WP8053344
No Longer Available
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WP8053344
This temperature sensor is used to measure the inside temperature of a self-cleaning oven. Its 1000-ohm resistance increases with temperature. The sensor has male leads, is 6 inches in length, and comes with 2 ceramic wire nuts. Fault temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Furthermore, if you find your oven is too hot, will not heat evenly, or simply will not heat at all, there could be an issue with your temperature sensor and you should look to replace it immediately.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489128
$11.77
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489128
This screw is sold individually.
Range Rocker Switch (Black) – Part Number: WP4314961
$53.20
Special Order
Range Rocker Switch (Black)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP4314961
This rocker switch can be used for both the oven selector and/or the oven light.
SCREW – Part Number: W10850756
$7.47
In Stock
SCREW
Part #W10850756
Range Oven Light Socket – Part Number: W10856866
$9.62
In Stock
CNTRL-ELEC – Part Number: 4342994
No Longer Available
CNTRL-ELEC
Part #4342994
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 4335412
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #4335412
KNOB – Part Number: 4338513
No Longer Available
KNOB
Part #4338513

Common Symptoms of the B4007B1

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
The lower burner would not ignite.
80 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Rego Park, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Oven wouldn't light (gas)
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from El Paso, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!