This V-style drive belt measures 51 inches long and 3/8 inches wide. The belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required. Continued use can result in the belt suffering from wear and tear. Replace the V-style drive belt if you notice that it looks damaged. The most common symptoms of a damaged drive b...Read moreelt include: a burning smell or a loud grinding noise coming from the washer; the drum will not spin, spins slowly, or will not agitate; the washer shakes and moves, will not start, or will not drain.
This drain pump with pulley, also known as the washing machine drain pump assembly, is a pump with two ports. The function of this pump is to help expel water from your washing machine. The pump is activated after the spin speed has been maintained for a specific period of time and is driven by the same drive belt that also runs the trans...Read moremission pulley. If your washer is not draining properly the pump could be clogged by a small object or could be broken and in need of replacing. Tools you will need for this repair include a 5/16 nut driver, a putty knife, a 3/8 socket with a ratchet, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
The snubber ring is a piece that is specific to your washing machine. The function of the snubber ring is to reduce noise and vibrations within your washer. It fits in between the leg and the dome assembly. If during your spin cycle you notice your washer jumping and making loud whirring noises, you may need to replace your snubber ring. ...Read moreThe tools you will need for this repair include: a putty knife, a 5/16 nut driver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a 3/8 socket and a ratchet, a small flat blade screwdriver, a pair of locking pliers, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be r...Read moreeplaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on th...Read moree appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be care...Read moreful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Hoses are the most likely cause of clothes washer leaks. This tub-to-pump hose carries the water from the tub to the drain pump. If you notice that your tub is leaking during the wash cycle, check the the hose for holes. If the tube does have a hole or crack in it, the part should be replaced. Also, check both the connection and the junct...Read moreure of the hose with the drain for your house. While you are looking at the hose, check to see if the threads or clamps are corroded or loose. This OEM replacement pump hose is 20 inches long, and fits most clothes washer units. Remember to turn off the water supply and disconnect the power from your washer before you begin this repair.
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washing machine was making alot of noise
565 of 581 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from Boca Raton, FL
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers, Wrench set
I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.
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Load Grinding/Rubbing Noise in Rinse and Spin Cycles
139 of 155 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Doug from Port Richey, FL
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using
... Read morea screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.
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The unit was leaking during agitation and spin cycle
58 of 62 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dan from Grain Valley, MO
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off. Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the
... Read more agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange. I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3. I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated. At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal. During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket. I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.