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ATG17 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Overview

Models starting with ATG17

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Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V – Part Number: 215846602
$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(44)
Part #215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly – Part Number: 241798231
$87.51
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(99)
Part #241798231
This 8-cube ice maker is used to create ice for your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold in to the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. Please remember to disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
Light Bulb – Part Number: 316538904
$27.45
In Stock
Light Bulb
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit – Part Number: 215366002
$57.15
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #215366002
This white door shelf bar is approximately 31 inches long and provides storage space on your refrigerator door. If it becomes loose, cracked, or detached, it needs to be replaced. A damaged shelf bar can lead to sagging and insufficient support for your groceries. To remove the old shelf bar, release the retaining clips or brackets and slide it out carefully. You can cut this retainer bar to fit your fridge model. When purchasing this OEM replacement part, check how many your fridge needs as this shelf bar is sold individually.
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side – Part Number: 3206150
No Longer Available
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #3206150
This white end cap is a little over two inches long. It is used for the right side of either the refrigerator of the freezer door shelf.
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side – Part Number: 5303324302
No Longer Available
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #5303324302
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the left side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over two inches long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: 5303918277
$95.86
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
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★★★★★
(36)
Part #5303918277
This replacement icemaker may also be known as the ice maker assembly and is compatible with your refrigerator/freezer. This assembly replaces the heat-release ice maker unit only. The kit comes with four round female connectors at the end of the wire harness. It also comes with the adaptor that converts the harness to three round female, and one round male connectors. The tools you will need in order to make this installation include a 1/4-inch nut driver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Before starting this repair make sure to unplug your refrigerator and shut off the water supply.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: 5303917954
$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repair, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side – Part Number: 3206165
$14.89
On Order
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
Part #3206165
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the right side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 5300158289
$106.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #5300158289
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has a diameter of 1/8 inches and is 1-1/4 inches long. The function of the evaporator fan motor is that it supplies air to the evaporator coils which then circulate cool air throughout your refrigerator, efficiently keeping your fresh food compartment cold. The tools you will need for this installation include a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Keep your hands protected during this repair by wearing work gloves.
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side – Part Number: 3206166
$20.85
On Order
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #3206166
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the left side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: 5308000010
$53.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.

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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Warrington, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re moved.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Broken ice maker
255 of 343 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Juan from Miami, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.
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Ice Maker Stopped Working
164 of 183 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JACK from MESA, AZ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
It was pretty straight forward. Remove the two screws that hold the unit to the wall of the freezer. In my case, I had to use a different ice maker than what came with the frig. In order to install the replacement unit they sent a wire adaptor so it would attach to the existing wiring. That too was all fine and dandy. The only p roblem was that the end of the wire adaptor did not fit through the existing hole in the rear of the frig. I used a utility knife to cut through the thin metal lining. That worked just fine. However, I could not cut through the insulation because I could not reach it through the small hole. The excess wire was supposed to be pulled through the hole and out through the back of the unit. So now the excess is between the wall of the freezer and the insulation. The unit is working wonderfully. In fact, it is making more ice than I can use. I am very pleased with the replacement unit. This is the 3rd ice maker that has been in this frig. All the others had a design flaw that had a leak in the rear of the unit. This caused all the ice to form into a big block. The replacement unit has not had this problem so far. Thank you for allowing me to explain my situation so that maybe others may benifit from my experience. Thank you. Jack
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