The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. It controls most of the basic parts and functions such as the heater, water inlet valve, the cube size...Read more, and cube ejection. If your ice maker control is broken it can no longer properly control the ice maker functions. It may not produce any ice, make small ice cubes, or have intermittent operation. This can occur due to normal wear and tear. The icemaker control assembly is attached to the ice maker mold, and is under the white cover. Test the icemaker control assembly by using a multimeter. If this reveals the assembly to be defective, you will need to replace this part. It is approximately 4.25 inches square, beige, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features one icemaker control assembly, including the control module and the motor.
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance...Read more. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repa...Read moreir, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, or not making/dispensing ice. If you notice the fill cup has been damaged or cracked; replace the part straight away. This water fill cup is...Read more a genuine OEM part and will fit most refrigerators, but check the list of compatible brands to make sure yours is included before purchasing.
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has a diameter of 1/8 inches and is 1-1/4 inches long. The function of the evaporator fan motor is that it supplies air to the evaporator coils...Read more which then circulate cool air throughout your refrigerator, efficiently keeping your fresh food compartment cold. The tools you will need for this installation include a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Keep your hands protected during this repair by wearing work gloves.
This is the replacement water tube kit for your refrigerator. This tubing is made of plastic, is 1/4 inch in diameter, and comes with 2 inserts. This tube may be longer than the original tube, and may need to be cut. This water tube transports water to the ice and water dispensers. If your refrigerator is leaking, or if the ice and water ...Read moredispensers are not dispensing properly, you may need to replace this tube. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This defrost timer is designed for use in your refrigerator. The defrost timer acts as a clock, that switches the refrigerator from the freezing cycle to the defrost cycle and back. If your refrigerator is running non-stop, or is not running at all, you may need to check and replace the defrost timer. This is a 6 hour and 21 minute defros...Read moret timer. This part is made of white plastic, with 4 metal prongs protruding from one end. To complete this repair, you will need to access the old defrost timer which is located inside the console on the roof of your refrigerator. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4-inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect power from your refrigerator before you begin this repair.
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light socket. This light socket is made of white plastic with two metal prongs. The light socket is located inside the refrigerator...Read more. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, simply pop the old socket out with a small flat blade screwdriver and disconnect the wires. Then simply reconnect the wires to the new socket, and snap it in place with the locking tab.
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated. This single outlet water valve is intended for use with some ice makers and refrigerators.
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake resistant which prevents the coating on the mold from flaking into the ice cubes when the ice mold begins to wear. The ice mold forms the ice ...Read morecubes and the heater allows the ice cubes to fall from the ice mold to drop them into the ice bucket. You will need to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator to access the mold and heater assembly. This is a genuine replacement part.
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No ice
567 of 688 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Daniel from Suwanee, GA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including th
... Read moree brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!