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ALR1450AJW Amana Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$55.29
In Stock
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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(52)
Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
Top Burner Igniter – Part Number: 74004053
$29.47
In Stock
Top Burner Igniter
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(22)
Part #74004053
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, element does not heat, or gas igniter glows but does not light, replacing the igniter can solve these issues. For this installation, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers. First place the grate on top of the burner, then lift the burner and disconnect the wires. Next remove the two Phillips screws from the bottom of burner, pull igniter out of the burner and wiggle in the new one. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for more instructions.
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon) – Part Number: W11665456
$23.60
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
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Part #W11665456
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out as required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode – Part Number: WP3412D024-26
$59.47
In Stock
Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode
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Part #WP3412D024-26
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode igniter and has a 7-inch outer diameter. This manufacturer-approved surface burner is for gas ranges. The surface burner supplies the heat to a cooking area on the cooktop. You may need to replace your burner cap if the gas igniter glows but will ignite the flame, the range will not start, or if you can smell gas. Because a faulty burner cap could lead to a house fire, it is recommended that you replace this part as soon as you realize it is faulty. Remember to unplug the range, turn off the gas, and let the unit cool down before starting this installation. Note: this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket, and is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Screw - 10-16 x 1 – Part Number: WP3387230
$7.47
In Stock
Screw - 10-16 x 1
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Part #WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
Door Seal – Part Number: WP7212P043-60
$53.20
In Stock
Door Seal
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Part #WP7212P043-60
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the range doors for the most effective performance. This seal is black in color and is made of rubber. If your oven is not heating evenly, has little to no heat when baking, or is too hot, replacing the seal can solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are needle nose pliers. Make sure the oven is cool before starting this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
Thermostat Knob – Part Number: WP74002444
$21.45
In Stock
Thermostat Knob
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Part #WP74002444
This thermostat knob is two inches in diameter. It is made of plastic, and will accept a 'D' shaped shaft. This white knob has gray lettering along the perimeter denoting the temperature level as well as the off, broil, and warm positions.
Burner Valve Knob – Part Number: WP74002446
$26.82
Special Order
Burner Valve Knob
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(1)
Part #WP74002446
This burner valve knob is two inches in diameter. It is all white in color and it is made entirely of plastic. This knob will accept a 'D' shaped shaft. There is dark gray lettering along the perimeter of this knob denoting the off, high, and lite positions.
Range Anti-Tip Bracket – Part Number: WP3801F656-51
$8.55
In Stock
Range Anti-Tip Bracket
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(1)
Part #WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
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(1)
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.

Common Symptoms of the ALR1450AJW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
168 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Brookfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
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gas burner ignitor failure
142 of 162 people found this instruction helpful.
  • roy from East Providence, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed t hat rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
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