AKT3650SS (10) Amana Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the AKT3650SS
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Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003583
Manufacturer #: 12002125
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
$57.38
In Stock
6 Inch Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764912
Manufacturer #: W10823704
This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
$137.75
In Stock
Radiant Surface Burner Element 1500W
PartSelect #: PS11764909
Manufacturer #: W10823699
This surface element is made for under glass set-ups and supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. It has an outside diameter of approximately 7 inches (1500 watts), and is a genuine OE...
$105.35
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764926
Manufacturer #: W10823726
With the dual element you are able to adjust the size of the burner you want to use to match your pots/pans.
$151.04
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742713
Manufacturer #: WP488234
This screw is sold individually.
Size: 8-32 x 1/4 inch.
$8.55
Special Order
Infinite Knob
PartSelect #: PS2085719
Manufacturer #: 74008210
Sold Individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
No Longer Available
Dual Burner Knob
PartSelect #: PS2034011
Manufacturer #: 31926603B
This knob is used for a dual burner and takes a double-flat shaft.
No Longer Available
ELMNT-SURF
PartSelect #: PS11764913
Manufacturer #: W10823708
This is a 2000 watt / 240 volt surface element.
$135.62
Special Order
Questions And Answers for AKT3650SS
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Common Symptoms of the AKT3650SS
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Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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Parts Used:
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Michael from Collierville, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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found this instruction helpful.
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The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
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Parts Used:
-
Igor from Campbell, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
54 of 63 people
found this instruction helpful.
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replaced heating element on flat surface stove top
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.
Parts Used:
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dennis from assonet, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
35 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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