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AGD4675YQ2 Admiral Dryer - Overview

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Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241
$15.00
In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(433)
Part #341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Dryer Cycling Thermostat – Part Number: WP3387134
$26.82
In Stock
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(102)
Part #WP3387134
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
M Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834
$28.42
In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(158)
Part #279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Maintenance Kit – Part Number: 4392065
$35.80
In Stock
Maintenance Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(362)
Part #4392065
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 349241T
$18.22
In Stock
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
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★★★★★
(150)
Part #349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
LINT SCREEN ASSY, WOD – Part Number: W11778253
$57.38
In Stock
LINT SCREEN ASSY, WOD
★★★★★
★★★★★
(211)
Part #W11778253
This manufacturer-certified dryer lint filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle, to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent lint from sticking to clothes. This model comes in white and is easy to install. It slides into the lint filter slot in your dryer. If there is visible damage to the screen then it's time to replace the part. Check your user manual and model number to see if this is the right part for you. Make sure you empty the lint filter after every use of the dryer and check the filter slot for an excess buildup of lint, which can shorten the life of your filter and be a fire hazard. The screen is approximately 20 inches in length, not including the handle, and around 8.5 inches wide.
Igniter Kit – Part Number: 279311
$32.63
In Stock
Igniter Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
Part #279311
If your dryer will not heat, takes too long to dry, or does not provide enough heat, you might want to replace your igniter kit. This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3-inch flat igniter, bracket, 4-inch wire leads, and the plug. The kit can replace both round and flat igniters and is used for many gas clothes dryers. Be sure to disconnect the power source from your dryer before you do this repair. The igniter is located within the burner assembly, so you will require tools to complete the repair. You will need a putty knife, a small flat blade screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a 5/16 socket with a ratchet.
Thermal Cut-Off Kit – Part Number: 279769
$35.80
In Stock
Thermal Cut-Off Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(72)
Part #279769
This kit includes a high-limit thermostat rated at 250°F and a thermal cut-off fuse rated at 360°F, both designed to prevent overheating in dryers. The thermostat monitors internal temperatures and interrupts power if the dryer exceeds safe operating limits, while the thermal fuse acts as a backup safety device, cutting off power if temperatures rise too high. These components are essential for maintaining safe dryer operation and protecting against fire hazards. If your dryer is overheating or not running at all, replacing these parts may restore proper function. Always disconnect power before installation and consult your appliance’s manual for placement and compatibility.
Roller Support Tri-Ring – Part Number: WPW10512946
$11.77
In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor – Part Number: WP338906
$35.80
In Stock
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #WP338906
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Leveling Foot – Part Number: 49621
$6.40
In Stock
Leveling Foot
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★★★★★
(13)
Part #49621
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Keep the washer as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or it might have threaded legs all around. Make sure the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This replacement part is sold individually.
Drive Motor with Pulley – Part Number: 279827
$97.46
In Stock
Drive Motor with Pulley
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★★★★★
(36)
Part #279827
This OEM drive motor is designed to operate the drum in electric and gas dryers by turning the drive belt, enabling proper rotation during drying cycles. Compatible with most Whirlpool-incorporated dryer brands manufactured before 1996, it includes a pre-attached pulley, which is not available separately. If the motor has shorted out or failed, the drum will no longer spin, and replacement is necessary to restore full functionality. Installation requires disconnecting the dryer from its power source before removing the old motor and installing the new one. This component is sold individually and meets original equipment standards for performance and reliability.

Questions And Answers for AGD4675YQ2

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Jason - For model number AGD4675YQ2
January 22, 2023
There's no pilot light, not sure what part to order
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Jason, Thank you for your question. If your dryer is not lighting, you may need to replace the igniter. The part number listed under your model number for the igniter kit is PS334180. If you would like to place an order for it, please call our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
$32.63
In Stock
Igniter Kit
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JANE - For model number AGD4675YQ2
January 17, 2024
Can only get one good dry from it a day. Otherwise it blows cold. We have changed the thermostat and the ignition solenoids and still it does not work properly. We can see the ignitor is lite.
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Jane, thank you for your inquiry. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the flame sensor, part number PS11741429, to solve the problem. We hope that helps!
$35.80
In Stock
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
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Common Symptoms of the AGD4675YQ2

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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intermittant heat
481 of 532 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Monmouth, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then un screw the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select
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Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
431 of 480 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Fremont, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Fro nt of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
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Dryer ran but would not heat
421 of 481 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Haverhill, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.
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