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AFF2534FEW5 Amana Refrigerator - Overview

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Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH – Part Number: W10874836
$35.15
In Stock
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(427)
Part #W10874836
This manufacturer-approved Refrigerator Pantry End Cap Kit, also known as the Refrigerator Drawer Support, is a kit containing all parts of the Pantry End Cap. It snaps into place on the appliance’s pantry drawer to help contain the items inside and to keep your refrigerator door from sliding all the way out. It is rated as "medium" difficulty to install, is constructed of plastic and comes in white. If broken or missing, the pantry drawer will not stay in place and the part should be replaced. Refer to your user manual and model number to ensure this is the correct part for you. This kit includes both the right and left side end caps, as well as the pins that will hold them in place. To replace an end cap, remove the three screws holding it in place. Then, remove the pin and end cap, replacing the old end cap with the new end cap. In the past, the left and right end caps were sold separately, but the part has been updated and now includes both sides. The part is sold as a kit, and unfortunately, as such none of the parts are available individually.
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Refrigerator Center Rail – Part Number: WPW10326469
$25.75
In Stock
Refrigerator Center Rail
★★★★★
★★★★★
(250)
Part #WPW10326469
This OEM Center Rail is a white plastic part which supports the crisper frame, which holds the crisper. Fifteen inches long and white in colour, if broken, the support may no longer hold properly. Refer to your model number and user manual to see if this part will be right for your appliance. This part is a very easy repair which only takes a few minutes and does not require any tools. Just slide the crisper drawers out, lift out the glass shelf, slide the new rale into place and replace the glass shelf and crisper drawers. This part is sold individually and not as part of a set.
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover – Part Number: W10827015
$130.10
In Stock
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(103)
Part #W10827015
This pantry drawer lid is also known as a pantry drawer door or pantry drawer cover. This is a genuine OEM part, and is sold individually. This part helps keep everything inside the drawer. It acts as a cover, and also keeps your drawer at the proper temperature by creating a seal. You may need to replace this part if door does not open or close, or if the drawer is too cold. No tools are required for this replacement, simply push the hinge pins aside to remove the old lid. Consider checking the pantry end cap kit for damage before ordering the pantry drawer lid, as they are often purchased together.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$45.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
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★★★★★
(44)
Part #WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP400021-1
$12.20
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP400021-1
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WP2315576
$55.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(28)
Part #WP2315576
The single water inlet valve, also known as a water solenoid valve, is used for refrigerators. This part is a solenoid-operated switch that releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the icemaker mold when activated. If your icemaker is making small cubes, does not dispense ice or water, or leaks, this replacement could solve the issue. The tools needed for this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a utility knife. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your dryer from the power source.
P-Trap Drain Tube Kit – Part Number: W10619951
$44.23
In Stock
P-Trap Drain Tube Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(33)
Part #W10619951
The p-trap drain tube kit may also be known as the duck bill, or the drain pipe, and it is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the p-trap drain kit is to carry the water that has formed during the defrost cycle to the bottom of the refrigerator, where your drain pan is located. The tools you will need for this repair include a 1/4-inch nut driver and a small flat-blade screwdriver. To do this repair you will need to pull the refrigerator forward in order to reach the lower access panel at the back. This kit includes the tube extension piece and spacer.
Refrigerator Electronic Control Board – Part Number: WPW10503278
$157.79
In Stock
Refrigerator Electronic Control Board
★★★★★
★★★★★
(26)
Part #WPW10503278
The electronic control board is used in refrigerators to monitor and manage the temperature settings, such as cooling or defrosting times. If your fridge or freezer is too warm, too cold, is not defrosting, will not start, and/or runs too long then replacing the control board could solve your appliance problem. The tools needed for this installation project is a small flat blade screwdriver. *Please note: the board will need to be programmed after installation. Remember to unplug refrigerator from power source as a safety precaution. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
$24.15
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.

Common Symptoms of the AFF2534FEW5

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
384 of 472 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
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