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AFC2 Amana - Overview

Models starting with AFC2

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover – Part Number: W10827015
$130.10
In Stock
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(103)
Part #W10827015
This pantry drawer lid is also known as a pantry drawer door or pantry drawer cover. This is a genuine OEM part, and is sold individually. This part helps keep everything inside the drawer. It acts as a cover, and also keeps your drawer at the proper temperature by creating a seal. You may need to replace this part if door does not open or close, or if the drawer is too cold. No tools are required for this replacement, simply push the hinge pins aside to remove the old lid. Consider checking the pantry end cap kit for damage before ordering the pantry drawer lid, as they are often purchased together.
Refrigerator Pantry End Cap – Part Number: WP12656018
$49.50
In Stock
Refrigerator Pantry End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(100)
Part #WP12656018
This right-side end cap is designed to support the pantry drawer in your refrigerator, ensuring smooth operation and secure placement. Mounted directly to the interior wall of the appliance, it helps stabilize the drawer and maintain proper alignment. If the end cap becomes damaged or worn, replacement is recommended to restore full functionality. Installation should be done with the refrigerator unplugged, and manufacturer-provided instructions and diagrams should be followed for proper setup. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Pantry End Cap – Part Number: WP12656105
$54.24
In Stock
Refrigerator Pantry End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #WP12656105
The pantry end cap is also known as a drawer support or a door shelf trim. This specific piece is sold individually and is meant for the left side of your refrigerator. It snaps into place on the door of your fridge, which allows it to hold items on the door shelf. To change the left side end cap on your refrigerator you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver. Users have ranked this installation as easy to do, with a less than thirty minute repair time.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$13.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WPA3073101
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stoves. Its purpose is to light up the appliance when the door is open. This is a genuine OEM part. You may need to replace the light bulb if the existing bulb is burnt out or broken. This light bulb is sold individually and is a common wear part, it is recommended to order a spare.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP400021-1
$12.20
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP400021-1
Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor – Part Number: W10613606
$56.33
In Stock
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(31)
Part #W10613606
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
Refrigerator Door Bin – Part Number: WPW10289497
$61.55
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Bin
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
Part #WPW10289497
If the door shelf bin in your refrigerator is cracked, missing, or no longer holding items securely, this clear plastic replacement bin may be just what you need. Designed to fit inside the refrigerator door, it provides convenient storage space for jars, bottles, condiments, and other small items. Featuring a transparent body with a white trim along the top edge, it blends seamlessly with most interior styles. Measuring approximately 14 inches wide, 3.5 inches high, and 7.75 inches deep, it offers a snug and functional fit for select refrigerator models. Be sure to verify your appliance’s model number to ensure compatibility.

Common Symptoms of models starting with AFC2

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
384 of 472 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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