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AFB2534DES Amana Refrigerator - Overview

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Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH – Part Number: W10874836
$35.15
In Stock
Pantry End Cap Kit, LH and RH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(427)
Part #W10874836
This manufacturer-approved Refrigerator Pantry End Cap Kit, also known as the Refrigerator Drawer Support, is a kit containing all parts of the Pantry End Cap. It snaps into place on the appliance’s pantry drawer to help contain the items inside and to keep your refrigerator door from sliding all the way out. It is rated as "medium" difficulty to install, is constructed of plastic and comes in white. If broken or missing, the pantry drawer will not stay in place and the part should be replaced. Refer to your user manual and model number to ensure this is the correct part for you. This kit includes both the right and left side end caps, as well as the pins that will hold them in place. To replace an end cap, remove the three screws holding it in place. Then, remove the pin and end cap, replacing the old end cap with the new end cap. In the past, the left and right end caps were sold separately, but the part has been updated and now includes both sides. The part is sold as a kit, and unfortunately, as such none of the parts are available individually.
Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$95.17
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
Part #D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Refrigerator Center Rail – Part Number: WPW10326469
$25.75
In Stock
Refrigerator Center Rail
★★★★★
★★★★★
(250)
Part #WPW10326469
This OEM Center Rail is a white plastic part which supports the crisper frame, which holds the crisper. Fifteen inches long and white in colour, if broken, the support may no longer hold properly. Refer to your model number and user manual to see if this part will be right for your appliance. This part is a very easy repair which only takes a few minutes and does not require any tools. Just slide the crisper drawers out, lift out the glass shelf, slide the new rale into place and replace the glass shelf and crisper drawers. This part is sold individually and not as part of a set.
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover – Part Number: W10827015
$130.10
In Stock
Refrigerator Pantry Drawer Door Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(103)
Part #W10827015
This pantry drawer lid is also known as a pantry drawer door or pantry drawer cover. This is a genuine OEM part, and is sold individually. This part helps keep everything inside the drawer. It acts as a cover, and also keeps your drawer at the proper temperature by creating a seal. You may need to replace this part if door does not open or close, or if the drawer is too cold. No tools are required for this replacement, simply push the hinge pins aside to remove the old lid. Consider checking the pantry end cap kit for damage before ordering the pantry drawer lid, as they are often purchased together.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
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★★★★★
(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP400021-1
$12.20
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP400021-1
Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Refrigerator Crisper Frame Support – Part Number: WP12603701
$10.70
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Frame Support
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WP12603701
This genuine OEM crisper frame support provides stability to the crisper drawer in your refrigerator, preventing sagging or collapse under the weight of produce. It is typically located at the bottom or near the rear wall of the fridge. If the crisper drawer feels unstable or wobbly, it may indicate a broken or damaged frame support. To replace it, remove items from the crisper shelf, then the shelf and crisper itself. Take off the glass from the top of the frame, and pull the support off the mounting stud. Note that the wall anchor for mounting this replacement part is sold separately.
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor – Part Number: W10613606
$56.33
In Stock
Compressor Start Device and Capacitor
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★★★★★
(31)
Part #W10613606
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
Refrigerator Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
$54.24
In Stock
Refrigerator Run Capacitor
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing. This repair is fairly easy to complete, and the only tools you will require are a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a 1/4 inch socket with a small ratchet. The run capacitor is located in the back of the fridge, so you will need to make sure you have room to work on this repair. Make sure to unplug the fridge prior to beginning the repair.
Refrigerator Door Bin – Part Number: WPW10289497
$61.55
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Bin
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★★★★★
(21)
Part #WPW10289497
If the door shelf bin in your refrigerator is cracked, missing, or no longer holding items securely, this clear plastic replacement bin may be just what you need. Designed to fit inside the refrigerator door, it provides convenient storage space for jars, bottles, condiments, and other small items. Featuring a transparent body with a white trim along the top edge, it blends seamlessly with most interior styles. Measuring approximately 14 inches wide, 3.5 inches high, and 7.75 inches deep, it offers a snug and functional fit for select refrigerator models. Be sure to verify your appliance’s model number to ensure compatibility.

Manuals & Care Guides for AFB2534DES

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Common Symptoms of the AFB2534DES

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
384 of 472 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
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The compressor would not run.
326 of 373 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gilbert from Clinton, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the co mpressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
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