This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or ma...Read morey not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
This is a center crisper rail for your refrigerator. This part acts as a support rail for the crisper drawer by holding the center of the crisper frame. You will need to replace this part is if your current drawer is not opening or closing properly. This crisper rail is white and it is made entirely of plastic. It is roughly 13.5 inches long, and 2.5 inches wide. This is an easy repair which requires no tools.
This crisper drawer cover support is for refrigerators.
Crisper drawer cover support supports the crisper drawer lid.
Wear work gloves to protect your hands when installing this part.
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty ...Read morethe compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
This condenser fan motor kit is designed for use with refrigerators. This fan draws air through the condenser coils and over the compressor. It does this with the goal of cooling the warm refrigerant before it enters the evaporator. When your fan or fan motor is not working your refrigerator will not cool properly. This is a 2-Watt, 115 V...Read moreolt motor that rotates the fan in a counter clockwise direction. This kit includes the hardware needed for installation, and a set of instructions. Before you begin any repair work make sure to unplug your appliance.
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this p...Read moreart is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing. This repair is fairly easy to complete, and the only tools you will require are a 1/4 inch nut driver...Read more, and a 1/4 inch socket with a small ratchet. The run capacitor is located in the back of the fridge, so you will need to make sure you have room to work on this repair. Make sure to unplug the fridge prior to beginning the repair.
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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determin
... Read moreing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
garth from forest lake, MN
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read moret's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Freezer is cold, Refridgerator is not as cold as it should be
384 of 472 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Russell from Hardinsburg, KY
A Bit Difficult
More than 2 hours
Screw drivers
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater
... Read moreelement, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.