This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stretched out. This results in the belt losing its grip and no longer driving the pump. The pump belt is black and made of rubber. The pump belt ...Read moreis located between the motor and pump underneath the washer. Simply remove the belt and hook the new one around the pulley. You may need to loosen or tighten the belt to ensure it is set in place properly.
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, element does not heat, or gas igniter glows but does not light, replacing the igniter can solve these issues. For this installation, you will nee...Read mored a Phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers. First place the grate on top of the burner, then lift the burner and disconnect the wires. Next remove the two Phillips screws from the bottom of burner, pull igniter out of the burner and wiggle in the new one. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for more instructions.
This is a water inlet valve which is used in washing machines. The valve controls and monitors the flow of water into the washer. It has a multi-mount bracket and outlet adaptor. The tools needed for this repair are: a 5/16 nut driver, 1/4 nut driver, and a small flat blade screwdriver. If cold water does not flow into washer, or the wash...Read moreing machine will not fill with hot water, replacing the valve can be the solution. To gain access to the water valve, locate the back of the washer and remove the hot and cold hoses, as well as the whole assembly. Next, remove the four wires and loosen up the clamp. After removing the old valve, replace it with the new one and reconnect the wires and hose. Remember to disconnect the washer from the power source before starting this project.
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. It is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. To access this part, you will need to remove the front panel of your washer. There will be 2 screws holding it in place. Once these have been removed, th...Read moree top will pivot to open, which will give you access to the injector assembly. This is an OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode igniter and has a 7-inch outer diameter. This manufacturer-approved surface burner is for gas ranges. The surface burner supplies the heat to a cooking area on the cooktop. You may need to replace your burner cap if the gas igniter glows but will ignite the flame, the range will no...Read moret start, or if you can smell gas. Because a faulty burner cap could lead to a house fire, it is recommended that you replace this part as soon as you realize it is faulty. Remember to unplug the range, turn off the gas, and let the unit cool down before starting this installation.
Note: this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket, and is sold individually.
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and wil...Read morel need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your oven will not start, element will not heat, the gas ignitor does not light, and/or gas spreads a smell. Make sure to rotate the burner asse...Read morembly clockwise to release the burner from the top. Please note: this part has been updated and the gasket seal is no longer required. Make sure to unplug the oven before installing this part and wear work gloves to protect your hands.
The plastic injector nozzle is used in washers and dryers. It is 3 inches long and is white in color. If your washer is leaking water, replacing the nozzle could solve your problem. For this repair project, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, 3/8 socket with extension, and a stubby Phillips screwdriver. To begin the repair, first remove the f...Read moreront panel by removing screws from the bottom end of both sides. Next, locate the two bolts in the interior of front panel and remove both. Pull bleach dispenser hose off before removing the top cover of washer. Remove clamp that holds the hose to the valve assembly to access the nozzle inside rubber valve and replace with new nozzle. Refer to the instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit...Read more includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on th...Read moree appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
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Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
600 of 619 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Brian from El Cajon, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outl
... Read moreet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
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Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
600 of 658 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Charles from Whitman, MA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel. I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools
... Read moreand about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
529 of 559 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
douglas from bonita springs, FL
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa
... Read moreshers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.