This is a water inlet valve which is used in washing machines. The valve controls and monitors the flow of water into the washer. It has a multi-mount bracket and outlet adaptor. The tools needed for this repair are: a 5/16 nut driver, 1/4 nut driver, and a small flat blade screwdriver. If cold water does not flow into washer, or the wash...Read moreing machine will not fill with hot water, replacing the valve can be the solution. To gain access to the water valve, locate the back of the washer and remove the hot and cold hoses, as well as the whole assembly. Next, remove the four wires and loosen up the clamp. After removing the old valve, replace it with the new one and reconnect the wires and hose. Remember to disconnect the washer from the power source before starting this project.
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. It is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. To access this part, you will need to remove the front panel of your washer. There will be 2 screws holding it in place. Once these have been removed, th...Read moree top will pivot to open, which will give you access to the injector assembly. This is an OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
The plastic injector nozzle is used in washers and dryers. It is 3 inches long and is white in color. If your washer is leaking water, replacing the nozzle could solve your problem. For this repair project, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, 3/8 socket with extension, and a stubby Phillips screwdriver. To begin the repair, first remove the f...Read moreront panel by removing screws from the bottom end of both sides. Next, locate the two bolts in the interior of front panel and remove both. Pull bleach dispenser hose off before removing the top cover of washer. Remove clamp that holds the hose to the valve assembly to access the nozzle inside rubber valve and replace with new nozzle. Refer to the instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit...Read more includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on th...Read moree appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
The leveling leg pad or foot pad fits over the leveling leg on your washing machine. The foot pad is designed to protect your floor and keep the washing machine level and in place. This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers. ...Read moreMany of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. To complete the repair, turn the old leg counter clockwise to remove it. Then, simply remove the old pad and replace it with the new one. Finally, re-attach the leg by turning clockwise. Ensure that the washer is level, and adjust the leg accordingly if it is not.
This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Maytag brand washing machines.
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, make sure the 4 levelling legs are even. Adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Your washer should be kept as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or i...Read moret might have threaded legs all around. Make sure the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This genuine OEM replacement part is sold individually, so be sure to order the amount you need.
This spring retaining clip is just under 1 inch long. The clip is made entirely of metal and is attached to the back wall of the washer, under the console. If your washer is vibrating and louder than usual during the wash cycle, your spring retaining clip could be faulty or damaged. Check the clip for visible damage, wear, and rust. If yo...Read moreu notice any signs of damage, the part should be replaced. Remember to disconnect the power from your washing machine before starting this repair.
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be care...Read moreful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
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Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
600 of 619 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Brian from El Cajon, CA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outl
... Read moreet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
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For several years the washer has moaned and groaned while filling, and filled slower than when new. It seemed to be associated with the inlet water valves. Then, it began to leak water from time to time, with the frequency and amount increasing.
67 of 72 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
David from Macungie, PA
Easy
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water po
... Read moreuring from under the machine.
I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with).
I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water).
The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)
I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free.
(Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)
The belts were not staying tight enough to agitate properly.
65 of 70 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
dominic from weirton, WV
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Firstly, remove ac power from washer! After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully
... Read more). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!