This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance...Read more. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repa...Read moreir, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has a diameter of 1/8 inches and is 1-1/4 inches long. The function of the evaporator fan motor is that it supplies air to the evaporator coils...Read more which then circulate cool air throughout your refrigerator, efficiently keeping your fresh food compartment cold. The tools you will need for this installation include a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Keep your hands protected during this repair by wearing work gloves.
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
The ice cube tray is made of plastic, is white in color, and is sold individually. This is a part for your freezer. The ice cube tray is sturdy but flexible to allow you to easily release the ice once it is frozen. The ice cube tray is what holds the water that eventually freezes into ice before being used. This tray measures approximatel...Read morey 11 inches long and 4 1/2 inches wide and holds 12 cubes at one time. The frigid temperature of the freezer can cause these trays to crack over time. This part is genuine and comes right from the manufacturer.
A filter-drier in a refrigerator has two essential functions. The first is to absorb system contaminants, such as water, which can create acids. The second is to provide physical filtration. This means trapping moisture, small metal chips, and dirt found in the refrigerant gas. If your refrigerator motor is constantly running, but the ref...Read morerigerator is not getting cold, the issue could be due to a damaged or faulty filter-drier. Faulty filter-driers are sometimes the cause for abnormal freezer compartment temperatures and partially frosted evaporators. This filter-drier is approximately 11 inches long. Remember to disconnect the power from your refrigerator before beginning this repair.
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including th
... Read moree brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Tad from Lancaster, OH
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc
... Read more. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself