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9222 - Overview

Models starting with 9222

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit – Part Number: 12400035
$50.56
In Stock
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(68)
Part #12400035
The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both bake and broil elements, and it can replace both short and long igniters. However, it cannot replace round style oven igniters. If your igniter glows for 90 seconds or more without igniting the burner, this means it is too weak to open the valve. The element in your igniter may have shorted it and it might not glow at all, or it might only glow orange or red. It needs to glow white hot; if it cannot get hot enough the gas will not be released from the safety valve and it will be impossible to light the burner in your oven. This kit includes the igniter, ceramic wire nuts, an insulation pad, a metal bracket, a variety of plug ends, and an instruction sheet. The body length is 3 3/4 inches, and the element inside is approximately 1 1/2 inches. This replacement part has an amperage range of 3.3 to 3.6. The element inside this igniter is extremely fragile, do not touch it. Before you start repairing your oven or range, make sure you have unplugged it and shut off the gas supply.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Oven Rack – Part Number: 71003346
No Longer Available
Oven Rack
Part #71003346
This oven rack is sold individually. The functionality of the oven rack is to provide a reliable cooking surface for cookware inside your oven. This specific oven rack is roughly eighteen inches wide and seventeen inches deep. You will find from the image provided that this oven rack is silver in color. Users have ranked this installation process as easy, and that it will take you less than fifteen minutes to complete. In order to install your oven rack make sure that your range has been turned off and cooled down. No tools are required to install this oven rack.
Thermostat Knob - chrome – Part Number: WP74001254
No Longer Available
Thermostat Knob - chrome
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP74001254
This thermostat knob is an inch in diameter and an inch tall. It accepts a 'D' shaped shaft and is chrome colored.
Door Hinge – Part Number: 74001984
$90.63
In Stock
Door Hinge
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #74001984
This door hinge is a genuine OEM replacement part for your wall oven. Replacing this part will require partially removing your oven from the wall, to access the hinge. This part contains one hinge, although it is recommended to replace both at the same time. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the hing assembly and install the new one.
Range Frame Screw – Part Number: WP7101P126-60
$7.47
Special Order
Range Frame Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP7101P126-60
Sold Individually.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$8.55
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WP98008545
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP98008545
Sold Individually.
Door Seal - Top – Part Number: WP7212P006-60
$62.60
In Stock
Door Seal - Top
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WP7212P006-60
This oven door seal creates a protective seal around an oven door to prevent heat from running out of a closed oven and keeps room air from entering the oven. This part is 17.5 inches long and made of rubber. The metal hook on both ends of the seal is there to keep it in place. Remove screws to take off old seal using pliers and replace it with the new seal. For detailed installation instructions and accurate guidance, refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer. As a safety precaution make sure to unplug oven from power source and wait for oven to cool before starting this replacement project.
Twist-Style Clock Knob – Part Number: 7711P172-60
No Longer Available
Twist-Style Clock Knob
Part #7711P172-60
Sold individually.
KNOB – Part Number: W11238392
No Longer Available
KNOB
Part #W11238392

Exact Part matches for your search term

CODE J – Part Number: 9222
No Longer Available
CODE J
This part number matches the current model number 9222
Part #9222
CABLE-STARTER – Part Number: 9222
No Longer Available
CABLE-STARTER
This part number matches the current model number 9222
Part #9222
Roll bracket – Part Number: 9222
No Longer Available
Roll bracket
This part number matches the current model number 9222
Part #9222

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Oven would not work but the Broiler did
337 of 374 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ferndale, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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Oven would'nt light
131 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Charlestown, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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oven failed to light
71 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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