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91195582991 Kenmore Range - Overview

Diagrams for 91195582991

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Oven Rack – Part Number: WB48T10011
$64.75
In Stock
Oven Rack
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WB48T10011
Sold individually.
Broil Element – Part Number: WB44T10009
$85.35
In Stock
Broil Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(31)
Part #WB44T10009
This broil element is found on the upper part of the oven cavity.
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W – Part Number: WB24T10029
$52.95
In Stock
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WB24T10029
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 to 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Range Oven Door Gasket – Part Number: WB04T10086
$55.21
In Stock
Range Oven Door Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #WB04T10086
The oven door gasket creates a seal between the oven door and the opening of the oven to prevent heat from escaping when the oven is closed.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$25.26
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN – Part Number: WB08T10026
$16.47
In Stock
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WB08T10026
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
Bottom Trim Channel (White) – Part Number: WB07X42948
$19.54
In Stock
Bottom Trim Channel (White)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
Part #WB07X42948
This part is the replacement door trim for your oven. It is white in color and is approximately 30 inches long and 2 inches wide. The bottom door trim supports the outer glass from the bottom. The main reason to replace the bottom door trim is if it is cracked or damaged, or if it is corroded and you cannot close your oven door properly. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part.
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Light Cover – Part Number: WB36X192
$26.39
In Stock
Light Cover
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. Disconnect power to your appliance before this repair. It is recommended to check the light bulb while the lens cover is removed in case it needs to be replaced. Be sure to remove all broken glass, if applicable, before installing new lens. This part is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer, and is sold individually.
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8" – Part Number: WB30T10045
$133.95
In Stock
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WB30T10045
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops heating. To complete this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat blade screwdriver. To access the element, open the oven door and unscrew the two screws under the lip of the cooktop.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Broiler element failed
66 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • paul from west grove, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connect ion..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..
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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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