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91193558991 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Door Handle End Cap – Part Number: WB7X7183
No Longer Available
Door Handle End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
Part #WB7X7183
This oven door handle end cap is used on both the left and right hand sides. Sold individually.
Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719
$20.63
In Stock
Single Heating Element Support Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB2X9719
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this replacement should be the solution. The tools needed for this project are slip joint pliers. For safety precautions, make sure to unplug your range from the power source, or shut off the house circuit breaker before starting this project. Refer to the installation instructions for best results and accuracy.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17X210
$74.79
In Stock
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WB17X210
This is a surface burner terminal block kit, also known as range surface element receptacle, for an oven, range, or stove. The kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip, and wires. This surface burner terminal block kit connects the wiring harness to the surface elements. It is important to shut off the power to the appliance before starting this repair. You will need to remove all four elements, trim rings, and drip bowls to access the terminal block on your stovetop. This is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the genuine manufacturer.
Oven Light Housing – Part Number: WB08T10002
$39.95
In Stock
Oven Light Housing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #WB08T10002
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufacturer instructions, if your bulb has burnt out you must buy the bulb for this part locally. This light housing is roughly five inches high, with an outside diameter of roughly four inches by four inches. To install this part, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a nut driver, and a pair of pliers.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15K5076
$59.18
In Stock
Door Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WB15K5076
This replacement door handle is designed to fit select range models and provides a secure grip for opening and closing the oven door. Measuring approximately 22 inches by 1 inch, it is constructed from durable black plastic for long-lasting performance. If your current handle is broken or missing, this genuine OEM part offers a reliable solution. Depending on your model, installation may require removing the inner panel of the oven door. Always refer to your owner's manual and wear work gloves for safety during installation.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Large Surface Burner Switch - 2350W 240V – Part Number: WB23K5027
$109.43
On Order
Large Surface Burner Switch - 2350W 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WB23K5027
This infinite heat control switch is a genuine OEM component designed for electric ranges with 8-inch surface burners. Engineered to regulate power flow to the heating element, it enables precise temperature control for a wide range of cooking tasks. The switch features a push-to-turn mechanism for safe on/off operation and is rated for 240 volts and 2,350 watts, with a current range of 8.9 to 11 amps. Its glass-encased heating element ensures durability and consistent performance. Compatible with various models from GE and affiliated brands, this part is essential for maintaining efficient burner functionality and energy use.
Outer Oven Door Glass - Black – Part Number: WB57T10110
No Longer Available
SCREW – Part Number: WB1K5156
$15.00
In Stock
SCREW
Part #WB1K5156
Porcelain Burner Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: PM32X5041
No Longer Available
6 PORC BOWL – Part Number: PM32X5040
$36.85
Special Order
6 PORC BOWL
Part #PM32X5040

Manuals & Care Guides for 91193558991

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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There was no heat on the coils.
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaohui from East Lansing, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.
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The end caps broke on my oven door handle.
45 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Thomasville, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1st I opened the oven door and removed the 2 screws that hold the outside and inside of the door together. With the door separated I removed the 2 screws that hold the end caps in place, then removed the old end caps. I put the new end caps on the oven door handle, aligned the holes for the end cap screws and reinstalled the screws,then reinstalled the oven door screws,closed the oven door and started cooking.
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