This is an OEM bottom bake element for your oven. Make sure to wait until your oven is cool before replacing this part, and disconnect power to the oven. In order to replace this part, you will need to pull out the oven and open up the back panel to disconnect the bake element wires and install the new ones.
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If you...Read morer large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
The temperature sensor, also known as the oven temperature sensor assembly is usually found in the back of the oven. The function of the oven temperature sensor assembly is to measure the temperature inside your oven while it is on and send the temperature back up to the electronic control, which adjusts as necessary. If your oven is havi...Read moreng difficulty achieving warmer temperatures and/or keeping warmer temperatures up, you may want to test your temperature sensor. Before you make this repair remember to unplug your range from the power source, and turn off the gas shut off valve.
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
This electronic control board is the central component of your wall oven, managing functions such as temperature regulation and heating elements. The manufacturer has modified the wiring on this part, so professional installation may be necessary for proper setup. Before installation, shut off the circuit breaker or unplug the oven for sa...Read morefety. This genuine OEM part ensures optimal oven performance and compatibility with select models.
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawer and provides stable support by securing the rear side in place. This part includes the necessary mounting screw for installation and is so...Read moreld individually. It’s a simple yet essential component for maintaining smooth drawer operation and proper alignment.
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 ...Read moreto 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
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Bake Element burned out, bunt like a sparkler.
353 of 377 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Brad from Bedford, KY
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.
The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are
... Read more very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Peter from stamford, CT
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Marc from Columbia, NJ
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the
... Read morescrews. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.