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91146564010 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10010
$21.45
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
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(63)
Part #WB31T10010
This drip bowl, also known as the drip pan or burner bowl, is 6 inches in internal diameter to match the burner, but actually measures closer to 8 inches in total diameter to its outer edges. This authentic manufacturer-approved part is used to catch spills from cooking on the top burner. If your bowls are getting stained, dirty, or rusted, this replacement can solve it. First, remove the element from the stove top, and pull out the old drip pan. Insert the new bowl and make sure it is aligned to where the element is plugged in. Lastly, you can put the element back in. For safety precautions, make sure to unplug the range from the power source and wait until the surface is cool before replacing this part. This part is sold individually, if you are replacing more than one drip bowl on your stove at once, you will need to account for this. To replace, simply pull the old surface elements and burner bowls off, give everything a thorough clean, and install the new parts with no tools necessary.
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17T10006
$35.80
In Stock
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
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(28)
Part #WB17T10006
This kit includes the female contact with wires, terminal block and mounting clip.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
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Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass – Part Number: WB25T10002
$16.07
In Stock
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass
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Part #WB25T10002
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main reason to replace the oven bulb lens cover is if it is cracked, damaged, or missing. Be sure that the lens cover is cool to the touch before you begin this repair. To remove the lens cover simply turn it counterclockwise until you can remove it. Replace it with a new cover and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. This is an OEM part sourced from the manufacturer, and it is sold individually.
Oven Light Housing – Part Number: WB08T10002
$39.95
In Stock
Oven Light Housing
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Part #WB08T10002
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufacturer instructions, if your bulb has burnt out you must buy the bulb for this part locally. This light housing is roughly five inches high, with an outside diameter of roughly four inches by four inches. To install this part, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a nut driver, and a pair of pliers.
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
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(10)
Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Large Surface Burner Switch - 2350W 240V – Part Number: WB23K5027
$109.43
In Stock
Large Surface Burner Switch - 2350W 240V
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Part #WB23K5027
This infinite heat control switch is a genuine OEM component designed for electric ranges with 8-inch surface burners. Engineered to regulate power flow to the heating element, it enables precise temperature control for a wide range of cooking tasks. The switch features a push-to-turn mechanism for safe on/off operation and is rated for 240 volts and 2,350 watts, with a current range of 8.9 to 11 amps. Its glass-encased heating element ensures durability and consistent performance. Compatible with various models from GE and affiliated brands, this part is essential for maintaining efficient burner functionality and energy use.
Screw – Part Number: WB1K5157
$15.00
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WB1K5157
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
Switch – Part Number: WB24T10147
$30.53
In Stock
Switch
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(3)
Part #WB24T10147
This light switch is controlled by opening and closing the oven door
Surface Element - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB03T10167
$84.91
In Stock
Surface Element - 6" – Part Number: WB30T10076
$69.91
Special Order
Surface Element - 6"
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(2)
Part #WB30T10076
This surface element provides heat for cooking tasks on a cooktop. Even heat distribution supports consistent results. Replacing a damaged element restores proper heating performance.

Manuals & Care Guides for 91146564010

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Common Symptoms of the 91146564010

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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burner was shorting out
47 of 49 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplugged unit pulled it away from wall took off the backplates traced wire to plug replaced with part ordered very smooth operation. the most impressive thing to me was i ordered part on computer and it was at my door in 30 hours awesome.
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Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
40 of 63 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
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