EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

91146393300 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Overview

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
REAR SUPPORT – Part Number: WB02X33180
$16.05
In Stock
REAR SUPPORT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(23)
Part #WB02X33180
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawer and provides stable support by securing the rear side in place. This part includes the necessary mounting screw for installation and is sold individually. It’s a simple yet essential component for maintaining smooth drawer operation and proper alignment.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$25.26
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Diode – Part Number: WB27X10597
$59.47
In Stock
Diode
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB27X10597
This part allows power to go one way only.
Halogen Bulb Kit – Part Number: WB49X29679
$61.40
In Stock
Halogen Bulb Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
Part #WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8" – Part Number: WB30T10045
$133.95
In Stock
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WB30T10045
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops heating. To complete this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat blade screwdriver. To access the element, open the oven door and unscrew the two screws under the lip of the cooktop.
Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
$16.05
In Stock
Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56T10105
$149.06
In Stock
Window Pack Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB56T10105
The GE Oven Door Window Pack Assembly is a genuine OEM part that fits select GE ranges and ovens. It includes a heat-resistant inner glass panel, frame, and seals, providing insulation and clear visibility into the oven cavity. Common issues like cracked glass or heat loss can indicate the need for a replacement. Ensure the oven is cool to the touch and wear gloves for safe installation.
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$85.36
In Stock
Dual Burner Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB24T10063
This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of dual surface burners on ranges and cooktops. It manages both the inner and outer heating coils of dual-element burners by cycling power on and off, allowing precise temperature control across various settings. Compatible with a wide range of models from brands such as GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore, Monogram, and Café, this switch ensures consistent performance and safe operation. Common signs of a faulty switch include inconsistent heating, burners remaining at full heat regardless of the setting, or the control knob failing to respond. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the cooktop panel, and replacing the switch behind the control knob. This part replaces several older models and is engineered for long-term
Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17T10011
$64.77
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
Part #WB17T10011
This part provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
6" Heating Element – Part Number: WB30X44826
$129.32
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the 91146393300

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Leominster, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!