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91144014990 Kenmore Cooktop - Overview

Diagrams for 91144014990

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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$85.36
In Stock
Dual Burner Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
Part #WB24T10063
This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of dual surface burners on ranges and cooktops. It manages both the inner and outer heating coils of dual-element burners by cycling power on and off, allowing precise temperature control across various settings. Compatible with a wide range of models from brands such as GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore, Monogram, and Café, this switch ensures consistent performance and safe operation. Common signs of a faulty switch include inconsistent heating, burners remaining at full heat regardless of the setting, or the control knob failing to respond. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the cooktop panel, and replacing the switch behind the control knob. This part replaces several older models and is engineered for long-term
Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24X29364
$87.17
In Stock
Infinite Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WB24X29364
This infinite control switch allows precise adjustment of heat levels for improved cooking accuracy. Smooth regulation enhances cooking performance and safety. Replacing a faulty switch restores dependable heat control.
Range Indicator Light – Part Number: WB25T10012
$41.69
In Stock
Range Indicator Light
Part #WB25T10012
"ELEMENT HALIANT 8"" 210 – Part Number: WB30T10049
No Longer Available
"ELEMENT HALIANT 8"" 210
Part #WB30T10049
ELEMENT HALIANT 1300W – Part Number: WB30T10051
No Longer Available
ELEMENT HALIANT 1300W
Part #WB30T10051
KNOB Assembly – Part Number: WB03T10085
$13.92
Special Order
KNOB Assembly
Part #WB03T10085
USE GEH WB1X1149 – Part Number: WB01X1149
No Longer Available
USE GEH WB1X1149
Part #WB01X1149
BURNER BOX BOTTOM Assembly – Part Number: WB64T10013
No Longer Available
BURNER BOX BOTTOM Assembly
Part #WB64T10013
USE GEH WB1X1131 – Part Number: WB01X1131
No Longer Available
USE GEH WB1X1131
Part #WB01X1131
USE GEH WB2K5349 – Part Number: WB02K5349
No Longer Available
USE GEH WB2K5349
Part #WB02K5349

Manuals & Care Guides for 91144014990

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Two part burner, outer ring not working
36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JERALD from PHENIX CITY, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The outer ring on the adjustable large haliant surface burner of our smooth top stove would not work. It would only work on the small (inner) size.

Found the part on this site, ordered, 3 days later, and it was fixing time.

2 screws removed to lift cooktop, 2 screws to remove old burner and disconnected 4 electric clips one at a time and placed them in same position on new burner. Replace the 4 screws and done.

VERY SIMPLE.
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Cooktop Burner was always on High no matter what the setting on the Control
33 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Salt Point, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1) Turn Power off at Circuit Breaker
2) Lift Cooktop out of counter top.
3) Remove all dials from controls by pulling straight up.
4) Remover glass plate which covers burners by removing
screws along outer edge.
5) Remove the two top screws from the control to be
replaced (this holds the infinite contr ol to bracket)
6) Remove one wire at a time from the old control and
plug on the new one in correct orientation.
7) Reverse above order to reassemble.

(Note: Not all infinite controls are same PN when
ordering, the drawingings are deceiving that they are)
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