The drip bowl on your range is designed to catch any spills that may occur when cooking. This drip bowl is chrome in color and is 6 inches in diameter. The chrome drip bowl is intended for use with rolled, terminal-style plug-in surface element units. The drip bowl is located beneath the surface element, so you will need to remove the ele...Read morement prior to swapping out the old drip bowl for a new one. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and you will not require any tools to complete it. This part is sold individually.
Drip bowls are located under the heating elements and catch grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. If your drip bowl is damaged or rusted, it could allow grease to drip inside your range. This 8 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned ...Read moreoff and cool to the touch. Installation is easy, just remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. Make sure the small hole on the bowl lines up with the element socket. Drip bowls are sold separately.
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or i...Read morenfinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
This is a surface burner terminal block kit, also known as range surface element receptacle, for an oven, range, or stove. The kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip, and wires. This surface burner terminal block kit connects the wiring harness to the surface elements. It is important to shut off the power to the appliance befor...Read moree starting this repair. You will need to remove all four elements, trim rings, and drip bowls to access the terminal block on your stovetop. This is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the genuine manufacturer.
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops heating. To complete this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat blade screwdriver. To access the element, open the oven door and unscrew the two screws under the lip of the cooktop.
This infinite control switch allows precise adjustment of heat levels for improved cooking accuracy. Smooth regulation enhances cooking performance and safety. Replacing a faulty switch restores dependable heat control.
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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Scot from Oakland, FL
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly
... Read moreunder cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Large burner would not get hot
70 of 95 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Kevin from Leominster, MA
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
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Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Frank from St Augustine, FL
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak